2018

2018 is just round the corner. I have not gather my thoughts in writing on year in travel 2018 yet, and time is running short. It’s been a pretty good year for me both personal and professional.

Looking back I was glad I visited Cuba given the recent mystery sonic weapon attacks at the US embassy in Havana. This incident has made the Trump administration set new restrictions to travelers planning to visit Cuba. One of the biggest changes is to restrict “people-to-people” visa that thousands of Americans have been using in recent years. With Cuba off my bucket list, at least for now, I do look forward to the next 12 months in 2018.

I took two months break from work in the beginning of May 2017. It was one of the greatest joy of my life. I took time to reset my goals, reenergized, and regrouped my thoughts for the remainder of 2017 and ahead for the year that follows.

As I’m writing this, 2018 is less than 2 hours away. It is minus 10 degrees celsius in NYC. Tonight it is one of the coldest New Year’s Eve in Times Squares. Since my break last year, I got a new job which is closer to home. I got an acceptance letter for my masters program in Rochester Institute of Technology. The thought of moving terrifies me, yet while a chapter closes on one end, it opens up to a whole new chapter for the coming new year. I’m the only one who can determine what and how the story goes as these blank pages will be filled as time goes by, all 365 pages! 

I’ll be heading to Malaysia for Chinese New Year. It falls on February 16, and this would be the Year of the Dog. I’m traveling with a friend and her family this time. We’ll be making a brief stop in Tokyo

on our return flight back to New York. I’m looking forward to this trip as I’ve fallen in love with the country after my visit to Kyoto/Osaka this year.

Flights have been pretty cheap in 2018 with lots of choices to new destinations and adventures. It is a  windfall, and I’m loving it. I’m hoping to visit more places next year even though I have plans for other things heading 2018. 

Like traveling to new countries with different cultures and taste in food, I’m looking forward to the New Year with anticipation. 

Modern Guangzhou

While Kyoto is known for its cultural heritage with numerous palaces, shrines and temples spread all over the city, Guangzhou has gone through modernization in the early nineties, and turning into an ultra-modern city showcasing futuristic architectures and fabulous Metro system.

The subway cars in NYC are usually crowded during rush hours; Guangzhou’s metro is packed with people no matter what time and day it is. While the stations are impressive with escalators and elevators for the convenience of the riders, it is the system that is so easy to use for any new travelers to the city. Like Kyoto, directions and locations are clearly mark so that passengers know where they want to go.The way in is always patrol by police with explosive detectors, use on all passengers (with bags) heading into the stations.

Satellite city within the city is amazing, for instance Baiyun Park has modern high-rises, museum, library, shops and recreational parks built to accommodate the ever demanding young affluent Chinese. As I was absorbing the wonderful experience walking along a walk lane, my flip flop snapped. With one flip flop on one foot, I felt silly but I didn’t care as I was enjoying the walk at this fabulous township.

I saw some amazing architecture in Guangzhou, notably Guangzhou Opera House, Canton Tower and the Public Library. Designed by Zaha Hadid, a well-known British Iraqi architect, the Opera House is also known as “Double Pebble”, a unique twin-boulder design set within an exposed granite and glass-clad steel frame. With contrasting color of one white and one dark grey boulder-shaped next to another, they do look amazing from afar.  

Next is the Canton Tower, with both indoor and outdoor observatory at its top two floors. The outdoor observatory has bubbled passenger cars, travel on a track round the edge of the tower’s roof. Night scene is amazing as it gives me a perspective of how big the city really is as the city lights stretch as far as the eyes can see. 

Guangzhou Public Library is a work of art. It’s the world’s largest open-stack public library with a large atrium as inviting a a window display at Bergdorf during Christmas. The 10-story building has gleaming passageways that connect one side to the other which reminds me of a shopping mall rather than a library. It probably wants people to feel welcome, and encourage them to browse and borrow books to read. 

Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street is an interesting place to go shopping for fake designer brands from shoes to clothes. The quality of these products are so good that it just feels wrong not to buy any. There are restaurants and street snacks alongside with shops that sell waxed ducks and Chinese sausages. Towards the end of the pedestrian street, there are 2 buildings selling nothing but jades and other gem stones and crystals. Prices range from dirt cheap to thousands of dollars. I never knew the varieties and colors available for these stones until I visited this place.

Guangzhou is the third largest city in China. It certainly gives a glimpse of China to any visitors coming to county for the first time. With its modern skyscrapers, it is an example of alpha city of the world. Yet the cultures and arts are well preserved in places like the Chen Clan Ancestral Hall and The Temple of the Five Immortals. Roast sucking pig and Taiye chicken are among the specialities the city is being known for, they are not just delicious but delicacies in this part of China. 

Only one word of cautious, do not order any pork wonton from any street vendor or coffee shop as there is a chance you might get a very strong pork smell from the wonton!

Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang International Airport has only one terminal. Planes do not stop at the gate, rather passengers walk to entrance and proceed straight to immigration. It takes less than 10 minutes for the whole process, and it makes me wonder if there’s any illegal stuff being brought in without notice.

Weather in late May is a lot warmer than in Kuala Lumpur. Then again, the weather has been so unpredictable these days. The taxis which are pretty much run by the state have a fixed none negotiable fare although drivers are allow to take as many passengers as they deem fit.

This might be an interesting 5 day trip or it might not be as I check into my hotel booked from airbnd. Hotel is less than 10 minutes walk to the night market. The air-conditioner in the room is just for display purposes and the furniture in the room is definitely outdated for today’s standard. I decide to venture out after I checked in.

Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage City situated at the confluence of two rivers; the mighty Mekong where the murky water runs fast and furious while Khan River on the other hand is shallow and pretty still with man made bamboo bridge crossing for the locals. Quite a contrast with big cities like Kuala Lumpur, LP is quaint, quiet and peaceful. As I follow the instructions given by the hotel, I see women and children selling flower offerings to the temples by the roadside. The Marigold flowers are arranged to the shape of stupa or perhaps pagoda in my opinion. I can only imagine the afternoon heat they have to endure for hours with just a hat or an umbrella. By 4 pm, local vendors are beginning to set up for the night market, which is open 7 days a week. Magnets, t-shirts, incense, and artwork are some of the things being sold here. 

I head to Mount Phou Si, hoping to get some cooler air as it is a 100 meter high hill in the center of old town. At the summit is What Chom Si, a Buddhist temple and also the main tourist attraction on the hill. The air isn’t as cool as I thought, though it is airy. I decide not to stay for the sunset as the bugs are bugging me here.

The early morning alms giving to the monks is also another attraction in Luang Prabang. As early as 6 am, locals and tourists, Buddhists or non Buddhists, with cushions on the footpath, kneel down with sticky rice in bowls getting ready for the stream of monks emerging out from the nearby temples to perform the daily ritual. What’s so fascinating about the ritual is that it is being performed at the backdrop of Luang Prabang’s historic architecture the stretches from one end to the other on both sides. With almost no traffic in sight, and other distraction, attention is totally focused on the relationship between the alms-givers and the monks in their mandarin-colored robes. A beautiful sight and experience indeed.

Kuang Si Falls is a multi-stage waterfall worth visiting on any given hot day in LP. It’s roughly an hour and a half on a van from old town. Water is clear blue and at times may look jade-green. As much as I love to dive in, I decide not to as the place is crowded on and off the water. Towards the end of the walk, lies the highest water which drops approximately 200 feet from above to the pond of crystal clear water. 

The 5 day stay in Luang Prabang passes by quickly. I got up to take a walk around old town early morning on my last day. As I head back to hotel, I notice a stall selling porridge and decide to try. It’s a large bowl of pork porridge served with a seasoned boiled egg. Delicious morning meal for a dollar before I head home with sweet memories in sleepy town Luang Prabang.

Osaka

Osaka is just a half hour train ride from Kyoto.

Anticipating my visit to the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan since I arrived in Japan few days ago, I must admit I’m quite excited about it since this would be my first ever visit to an aquarium in decades. Osaka, the city known as the “nation’s kitchen” when it served as the center for rice trade during the Edo Period is modern and has  more millennials than in Kyoto as I’ve observed walking toward the aquarium which is located at the Osaka Bay area and close to Tempozan Ferris Wheel. As visitors enter the aquarium, they are bing greeted with an underwater tunnel of various fishes from the ocean. Rather than going straight to see the various species of the ocean, visitors are directed to take the elevator up the 8th floor where a bunch of playful otters chase each other on ground while others swim underwater trying to catch some fishes in the water. As I circle down the aquarium, I experience the various levels of both ground and marine life of the Pacific Rim region.

The “Pacific Ocean” located in the middle of the aquarium is fascinating. Whale sharks swim gracefully alongside manta rays, hammer sharks and other aquatic fishes in the largest tank in the aquarium. I could spend hours watching them swim back and forth, up and down in the surreal ocean environment. The jellyfish area is another interesting exhibit not to be missed. They just flow with the movement of water if there’s any, and some are so colorful that they are mesmerizing to the human mind. At the end of the exhibit, there’s an area where visitors can interact with some of the stingrays and penquins. 

As night falls, I head to Dōtonbori, a tourist destination with large illuminated signboards hung above  stores’ fronts. The place boasts a wide variety of traditional and modern Japanese cuisines from well-known restaurants to other food stalls. Weather at night in May is just beautiful, and with so many types of streets food to choose from, Dōtonbori is like a candy store for both young and old. As I go from one restaurant to another, I notice a brightly lit pharmacy. My curiosity got the better side of me. I have to go in, and here I find out that it’s a shopping paradise for shoppers of a different kind. If you are like me into things like Bandaid (Japanese brands of course) that heals aches and pains, face masks from snails’ saliva to  snake’s venom, and other pills that would do wonders to the body, make sure you do not leave your American Express card at home. 

An alternative to Dōtonbori is Shinsekai, smaller, less colorful but interesting. Shinsekai was once well-known for its criminal activity that flourished in decades until it slowly flourished to become a local tourist attraction. It is now a scene of locally run restaurants, clothing stores and other legitimate business outlets like mahjong clubs and pachinko parlors. The centerpiece of the neighborhood is the Tsutenkaku Tower. A well lit tower by night, it’s definitely a focal point of interest should I get lost wondering at night.

Fond of Kyoto

Fine wine is to be appreciated and only for special occasion. Kyoto is one of the few cities that should be cherished and remembered after your vacation ended and you are back home managing your regular routine.

I was the last to visit Kyoto/Osaka as all my friends have visited these two places. Kyoto was once the capital of Japan, and this explains why there are so many temples and palaces throughout the city. Two that really stand out in my opinion are Fushimi Inari-taisha and Kiyomizu-dera. 

The bright red colored vermillion on each of the torii estimated by the thousands on the site alone in Fushimi Inari-taisha is a place that should be experienced by any travelers once in their lifetime. Characters are engraved on each of the torii, probably name and date of purchase by a Japanese business or an individual. The toriis are infused with the meaning of “wishes will come through” so as one passes these shrines pray for what you wish for, and they will come true! The walk up Mt Inari is about 2 hours so be prepared and make sure you have a bottle of water. 

Kiyomizu-dera was one of the 20 finalists for the New7Wonders of the World. What’s so unique about the temple is that not a single nail was used to build the entire structure. The main hall has a large veranda, supported by huge pillars that juts out over the hillside. Unfortunately, the whole temple is currently under construction, and it’s covered with bamboo from the rooftop down to the bottom of the veranda, which offers an impressive view of the city. Still the crowd is not hindered to visit this massive structure. The complex offers various talismans and statues, bringing good fortune and love for those who seek and believe. Both men and women lined up to get their blessings by touching them. 

With so many temples. shrines and palaces in Kyoto, it’s quite impossible to see all or even the few famous ones in a few days as I’ve found out. Besides the official residences and places of worships, Gion District is an alternative. The District is built to accommodate the needs of visitors to the Yasaka Shrine. It soon evolved to become one of the most exclusive and well-known geisha districts in all of Japan. At about 5 pm, geishas are seen walking hurriedly to private clubs also know as Ochaya with an assistant following from behind. Like any other Hollywood stars, these geishas are movies stars in their own right. The cameras just click away the moment they are spotted by tourists in the area. 

Weather is lovely in May. Day time is warm and comfortable. As soon as sun sets, air gets cooler. Kyoto is a well-planned city that adopted the grid pattern copied from modern day city Xi’an in China. It is both walking and bicycle friendly which makes living comfortable for people of any age and gender. The two most interesting things about Kyoto are the lack of garbage receptacles in most part of the city, and the cleanliness of the public restrooms anywhere in the city.

There is hardly any garbage receptacles. I learned the hard way when I had to throw plastic container and empty bottle water. It took me awhile before I found one. Amazingly anywhere I went, there was not even a piece of paper on the ground! Then there are the public restrooms, whether they are at the train stations or parks, in malls or restaurants, there are extremely clean. It really made me feel shameful of the public restrooms that I encountered either in New York or Kuala Lumpur. Some toilets are even equipped with music and water spray where both pressure and temperature can be adjusted to individual needs.

Friends told me that one can never gets bored visiting Kyoto. They are right. How could I?

Cuba

You can call this a rush. 

When I saw United Airlines offering its new route to Cuba for the first time, I made no hesitation and decided to go. I’m glad I did.

If you think of Cuba, you might thought of the Cuban crisis and Fidel Castro, the decay architecture and the classic old American cars. The Americans are coming, a new hope for the many poor inhabitants living in country. Elizabeth runs a tiny homestay at her place in a rundown neighborhood. She speaks almost no English but I could tell that she’s hoping things will be better moving forward. “Americano Wisconsin, Americano Florida”, as she points to the room I’ll be sharing with two other Americans. She is installing an air conditioner in the room to be more competitive. Air conditioner is not a necessity in Cuba, it is more of a luxury for most. 

As sunsets, I see people sitting by the steps to their apartment, chatting with neighbors while kids either play soccer or a game of cat and mouse. This is not just the way to play catch up with friends but to cool off from the afternoon heat in their apartments. 

Walking along the Al Pedro Boulevard, which is probably a 5 to 6 blocks by American standard, I could see classics such as Buick, Chevrolet or Ford zooming by with tourists taking wefie in the cars, and waving at people on the Boulevard. An hour ride is probably 40 to 50 CUC, which is more than the average income for the people in Cuba. A pretty good thought to know that this would help the livelihood of a family, a bitter pill to swallow to know that the locals are unable to enjoy the way these tourists are enjoying. 

At most stores, common things such as detergent or soap are not as plenty as the ones in any US cities, not to mention the selections we have in America. I see some give the storekeeper a slip of paper. I learned that later, it is a system that establishes the ratios each person is allowed to buy, and the frequencies of supplies, hence explained the slip of paper given to stores known as bodega and depots. Most fresh fruits like bananas and mangoes with skins darkened are being sold at market. These are fruits you might see being sold in bag for a dollar in the US. I did not see any refrigerators at some stores selling meat. I hope the meat will be all sold before the day is over.

There are two sides of the Old Havana. One is where Cathedral de San Cristobal and other residences of famous people are located. Here you find cafes, restaurants, hotels and squares. 

The other one is yet to be restored, where you will see the actual life of its inhabitants. Garbage, dogs’ poop and kids running in their neighborhood without the intrusion of tourists.

Before I came to Cuba, I did a little reading on the people of Cuba. They are friendly people and very helpful. Yes, they are, but not with a price to show your appreciation. However they are not as aggressive as one might encounter in other countries in similar situation where help is needed.

Despite the heat and discomfort at times, Cuba makes decay looks simply gorgeous and captivating. Cuba makes everything old looks new again. Cuba makes lack of personal electronic device a lot less significant in everyday life among its community.

These and everything else intrigue us all in Cuba for the first time. 

Travel Now

It is 2017 and May is almost here. My traveling documents are in hiatus since last November. Days are getting longer, and with spring in the air, it is time to get inspired and travel again. I’m taking 2 months off from work, and do some serious traveling this year.

First, I’m heading to Havana, Cuba for a few days, recognized as one of the New 7 Wonder Cities of the World in 2015. Old Spanish buildings from the old colonial times and classic American cars are as iconic as the flashy billboards in Times Square. If you ask me if I know anything about Cuba, the first thing that comes to mind is probably the Cuban Missile Crisis in 1962. In fiction, it would be a scene in the X-Men movie where a mutant with dragonfly wings spit acidic saliva at an army of naval officers and Bashee (a mutant with ultrasonic screams) hot in pursuit. But in reality, it was a confrontation between the United States and the Soviet Union concerning their ballistic missile deployed in Italy, Turkey and Cuba.

In my mind, I look forward to the trip with both anticipation and reservation; anticipation that the visit would be both culturally colorful and historically rich, reservation if I should keep my excitement to the minimum since this would be my first visit to a communist country in decades.

Whatever it may be, I hope this would be an experience not to be taken for granted.

After Cuba, I’m heading to Osaka and Kyoto. I heard so much about Kyoto in particular. A search on the world wide web, Kyoto has so much to offer, from being a food heaven to culture and tradition practiced by the Japanese centuries ago. The temples, shrines, imperial palaces as well as gardens are bests of the best in Japan. I have seen them in pictures shared by friends in social media but now I have the opportunity to experience the sights and sounds myself. From Kyoto, I will head to Osaka.

Osaka is the second largest city in Japan. I just learned that the city was bombed four times during World War II before the Japanese surrendered. It should be interesting.

Luang Prabang is listed under UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is known for its numerous Buddhist temples and monasteries but its great experience is watching hundreds of monks walking through streets collecting alms every morning. I am looking forward to this when I’m there.

My last trip to China was more than 15 years ago. I’m happy to include Guangzhou in my itinerary this time around. Some friends told me it’s the street food, others told me it is the nearby villages that are not to be missed. Either way, I’m planning not to miss any of them. 

It sounds like a lot of traveling, with lots of culture to absorb. I hope after 2 months of traveling, my body and mind would be rejuvenated and get the much needed break we all need every once in a while.