I vaguely remember my last visit to Lisbon 10 years ago.
My recollection about Lisbon is that getting around the city is like going through a maze of streets that rise and fall across hills that dwindle into alleyways and stairways most of the time. There are a few interesting neighborhoods which are all within walking distance from the city center. The standout neighborhoods are Alfama, Bairro Alto, Baixa, Belem and Chiado, and except for Belem, these places are covered in the free guided walking tour which takes about two to three hours. Pioneered by Chis Sanderman back in 2004 in Berlin, the concept is gaining popularity throughout the world today.
I'm glad I took the tour on the first day of my stay in Lisbon together with a friend. "This time of the year is low season in Portugal." said Jose, our tour guide. This explained to us why the hostel that we stayed in was not full, streets were pretty quiet the night before, and we were the only people in the tour. But whose complaining!
Bairro Alto is in central Lisbon. It is not just a residential, and shopping district but it is also the heart of the city's nightlife for its youth. At night, it is home to punk, gay, metal, hip hop and reggae scenes, just to name a few, with a mix of culture and people. This is the place to be at night reiterated Jose, although Fado, Portugal's national music is still popular in this part of the city. Baixa or downtown Lisbon, is the city center with shopping and banking activities that stretches from the riverfront to Avenida da Liberdade, which has streets named according to the storeowners and craftsmen who traded in the area. I particularly liked its pedestrians' only streets, cafes and shops with tiled walkways and Art Deco shopfronts. On my first night, I had a great buffet dinner for 7 Euro!
Alfama is the oldest district in Lisbon. It used to be inhabited by fishermen and the poor before, but today it is a historical quarter of homes and small businesses, with maze of narrow streets and small squares. My guide took us to for a shot of ginjinha, a favorite liqueur for many Portuguese on any given day. Belem is one of the most visited district in Lisbon. Although it is not within walking distance, it is less than 15 minutes from the downtown Lisbon. Belem's major historical building is the Jerónimos Monastery, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 along with Tower of Belem. Within the monastery, there's a church which lies the stone tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luis de Camoes. My friend and I had lunch at a local restaurant. I ordered grilled octopus, and it tasted really delicious.
We went to Porto from Lisbon for the weekend. The journey is less than 4 hours, and the train is pretty comfortable. Registered as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996, Porto was an outpost for the Roman Empire many centuries ago. Today, it is internationally known for its port wine. The highlight of my trip to Porto is to discover the market, Mercado do Bolhao which is situated in the heart of the city. Built in 1914, it is pretty rundown but well-maintained in a two level opened air building. It looks like a place counting its last days on earth. I would recommend anyone to go there before it soon disappears.
I loved Porto. One side of the city along Douro River is the old quarter consisting many alleys and streets for the prying eyes to explore, while on the other 'new' side, there are countless signs of port wine names the city is famous for. On the last night in Porto, I came across a souvenir shop, and to my surprise I saw what I had been dreaming to get before I started the trip, a typical Portuguese clog. I started collecting traditional clogs/shoes of countries I've visited only recently, and now I am a proud owner of three different pairs!
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