S(e)oul City

Seoul is one of the largest cities in the world with a population of over 10 million people. It ranked third among the top tourist destinations for year 2010. I was told that the Koreans do celebrate Chinese New Year, and in fact, I was pretty excited to go there on the 6th day of the 15 day celebration. 

But I was disappointed. There was not a trace of Chinese New Year festivities in the city. Ms Sun, who runs the hostel that I stayed at said that in Korea, the New Year is celebrated for only three days. And this is not my only disappointment.

My first full day in Seoul begins with a stop at Gyeongdong Market. It specializes in traditional Asian herb, dried and fresh food, and ginseng, lots of them. There are outdoor and indoor markets, and also stalls that sell cooked food. As I do not read any Korean, I pointed at a picture to the person who took my order in one of the stalls. I had wanted a bowl of spicy soup but instead I've got a bowl of soup with pig's blood jelly! This is not for those who are unfamiliar with exotic Asian cuisine. After my meal, I take the train to City Hall, and make a visit to Deoksu Palace, which served as the king's residence twice during the Joseon Dynasty. Located at the center of Seoul, it is very popular among visitors for its beauty and tranquility.

Weather turns out to be nice on my second day in Seoul. I make a visit to the Royal tombs of King Seongjong, and his second Queen Jeonghyeon and King Jungjong of the Joseon Dynasty. The stone figures of civil and military officials are over three meters tall, while the other objects of animals are symbols of strong sovereign power. Unfortunately, I am able to get up close and personal with King Seongjong's tomb only, while the other two are off limit. As the sun sets, it casts shadows off the tree branches onto the ground in the park. It is a pretty solemn sight indeed. Like most major cities, rush hour in Seoul begins at 4 pm. The subway can be pretty crowded, and here in Seoul, the experience can be quite cold. There is not even one trash reciprocator around as I enter the station for Insadong, another popular shopping district. The station is so clean, and the service is so efficient that it is an impossible task for the New York's subway to achieve. And, everyone just whisper to one another. Just a bit too clean and quiet for my taste -- it's like living in a perfect world, a little too prefect for me though.

I had Korean dumplings and rice cakes in Insadong. Delicious! Things are a little pricey, but quality are certainly better.  I make a quick stop at Itaewon. I suggest that you walk away from the main road and head to the alleys. Small family run businesses are a common sight, and I could feel the old charm and tradition surrounding the area.

Back in the hostel, I have five LOUD Chinese women in my dormitory room. Oh my gosh! 

I visit Changgyeong Palace the next morning. It's a half hour walk from Jonggak station. The palace was added during the reign of King Seongjong to provide comfortable living space for queen dowagers. Back to the Jonggak station, I head to Namdaemun market. This place is huge! It is a traditional day and night retail and wholesale market with underground arcades. Even more, the classy departmental store, Shinsegae is just nearby. You can bargain at Namdaemun from anywhere between ten to twenty percent lower than the asking price. There are some very good quality quilted blankets (queen size) selling for $30 which might be worth considering if you happen to go there. However, you might come across lots of products coming from China which you might want to reconsider before buying.

The weather in Seoul got colder on my last day. I meet up with SungJin, a very good friend of mine. He takes me to his favorite place to eat. We have cold soba noodles, steamed dumplings, and rice in hot pot. Another delicious and satisfying meal! We parted  and I head to Insadong again. I see a few more interesting shops this time around. I've got a pair of dragons handcrafted in glass, and a couple of North Korean dolls. Then it is time for me to go back to the hostel to pick up my bag, and head to the airport.

I came to Seoul to experience the market squares which I did. I came to Seoul to experience the food which I did. I came to Seoul to experience the lifestyle which I did.  The city is full of charm and tradition but yet, its people seemed monotone; as the city progresses to become a major economic power, I would rather see a more at ease society, and a less structured city, one that is not so driven by perfection.

The Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is about the size of West Virginia, but it proudly owns seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites. These places have emerged as the hub for tourists from across the globe fascinating them at the very first glimpse of their beauty and mystery. I have to admit that when I decided to visit the country I was drawn by the raw beauty of Sigiriya, an ancient rock fortress and palace ruin situated in the central Matale District of Sri Lanka.

Bandaranaike International Airport is 22 miles north of Colombo. It cost $20 for a taxi to the city. Or you can take a free bus transfer to the bus station where tuk tuks are plenty. It cost me 1,000 rupee (about $9) on a tuk tuk to my hostel, which is a private accommodation located at Colombo 10 (the city is divided into 15 numbered areas). After checking in, I decided to go to Pettah market, which is famous for its open air bazaars and markets. If you like shopping, this is the place to go to when in Colombo. It seems that each street has its own speciality; it kind of reminds me of the French Quarter in Hanoi.

Private buses or the regular ones to Dambulla are available at the Central Bus Station. I chose the private bus (cost 280 rupee or $2.50) the next morning. Surprisingly, the condition of the bus was better than I thought; velvet red seats with a cool air-conditioner that worked. It took three and a half hours to reach Dambulla. I had a meal of Sri Lankan rice and curry at Benthota Bake House, which serves realIy good local food. After my meal, I head to The Rock Temple, one of the seven World Heritage Sites in Sri Lanka. I purchased the ticket from a lady sitting in a tiny room with minimal lighting and bare furnishing. The walk up to the temple can be slippery when wet (it had rained earlier) with occasional steps in certain places and sloping rock face.

Shoes are not allowed in as you enter the temple, and I was asked to leave them to an attendant for a 25 rupee fee. "I can put the shoes in my bag" I said. But no, it's disrespectful to bring the shoes in with you. I don't think so! Nevertheless, the caves are gorgeous with endless paintings from wall to wall, and the ceiling as well. History suggests that the place was used as a place of worship when KIng Valagamba was driven out of Anuradhapura, and he carved the place into rock temples after he regained his throne. It started to rain again as I began to walk back down. I rode the tuk tuk to Sigiriya Holiday Inn, which is about 20 minutes ride from downtown Dambulla (cost 700 rupee).

The next morning started with the rain. Luckily it stopped before my tuk tuk arrived. An entire day with petrol cost me 2,800 rupee ($27). Sigiriya takes about 45 minutes from the hostel. The road to the site was still wet and muddy from the rain as I approached the entrance, but I could see the ancient rock fortress standing majestically from afar. I was mesmerized as I walked toward the rock. It took me an hour to reach the Lion's Paw, a reminder to devotees ascending the rock that Buddha was Sakya-Simba and his spoken words were as powerful as the sound of a lion's roar. Reaching the top means clambering up across a series of grooves cut into the rock with the handrail as an assistance.

What's left today is just a foundation, and as I gazed across the surrounding jungle, it's just a reminder of the Buddhist monks probably did over 1,500 years ago.

As I began to enjoy myself on the way to Polonnawura, it rained again. "Climate change" said the driver. "So much rain since last week!", he said with frustration. Tell me about it! Luckily, it stopped when I got to Polonnawura after two and half hours ride. The ancient city of Polonnaruwa remains one of the best planned Archeological relic sites in the country, standing testimony to the discipline and greatness of the Kingdom's first rulers. You need to spend at least 5 to 6 hours in Polonnawura. Unfortunately, this is not the case for me, and with the rain coming and going, I had to practically run in and out from one site to another. The Royal Palace, Watadage, Alahana Pirivena Complex, Rankot Vihara, and Lankatilaka are just some of the sights worth spending your time there. Soon the heavy downpour and night sky had made it impossible for me to stay any longer in Polonnawura. I was lucky that I had a wonderful driver who knew where he was going.

I woke up the next morning with the bathroom filled with bugs! It was then I decided to leave a day early back to Colombo. I spent my last day in Colombo walking around Pettah. This time I had more time to surround myself with the hustling and bustling of the heartbeat of the city.

I came to Sri Lanka because I had wanted to see Sigiriya. Now I leave the country not just remembering Sigiriya, but also Dambulla, Polonnawura, Colombo, and especially the friendly people. The country is definitely a place worth visiting again and again. Hopefully, next time I am able to visit Anuradhapura without the rain.

Chinese New Year in Kuala Lumpur

I was born and raised in Kuala Lumpur. The city is constantly evolving; changing as Malaysia is on track to a fully developed nation by the year 2020. It is one of the finest cities in South East Asia although traffic is also one of the worsts in the region. However, Kuala Lumpur has a lot to offer to tourists (both locals and foreigners) making it the fourth most visited city in the world in 2009. Tourists have the options to choose from budget hotels to luxury boutique hotels; high end local designs to international famous designers; local food fare to international cuisines; and the list goes on.

Chinese New Year falls early in the beginning of the year. 2011 is the Year Of The Rabbit, and it is supposed to create visibility of an energetic and carefree year ahead. With the New Year less than a week away, anything red are adorned in most shops and malls across the city. The best place to visit around this time is Petaling Street or Chinatown. It is infamous for pirated clothes and accessories along with bootleg DVDs and CDs. Haggling is a common sight here and the place is usually crowded. It is definitely the place to be to capture the essence of the coming New Year with waxed ducks, and Chinese sausages, Mandarin oranges and pomelos all trying to outshine each other . Not too far away from here is the Central Market, located at Jalan Hang Kasturi. It is a one stop shopping centre for Malaysian products such as handicrafts, art, kebaya, songket, batik and a wide variety of Malaysian cuisine.

Two other major shopping areas are surrounding the Golden Triangle and Kuala Lumpur City Center (KLCC), which is also the location of the tallest twin tower in the world.

Although Kuala Lumpur is not famous for its arts and museums, it still has a lot to offer. A mix of cultures, KL is a salad bowl of Chinese, Indian and Muslim and more. Diverse cultures intertwined making this cosmopolitan city of 2 million inhabitants well worth visiting. Visits to its mosques, temples and other places of worship can be interesting although one may have to adhere certain rules before entering. 

Other places of interests in Kuala Lumpur include Dataran Merdeka, Taman Negara, and Royal Selangor.

The rapid development in recent years has exhausted the roads and its mode of pubic transportation in the city. Public transportation in Kuala Lumpur is not well integrated, and this has made it quite impossible for the KLites to get to work on time without a car. Therefore, it is no surprise that each household owns more than one car. Taxis can be a hassle at times. As a tourist, one will encounter unscrupulous cab drivers who will take advantage of any inexperienced tourist. Sometimes, this can happen to locals as well. 

Malaysian cuisines are beginning to gain popularity among the world of culinary arts, and rightly so. From its roti to pulled tea, fried kuey teow and assam laksa, nasi lemak and satay, foodies are taking notice. Food may be comfort to the stomach, but in Kuala Lumpur, it is part of the conversation. People talk about lunch even before they finish their breakfast. 

Despite its shortcoming, Kuala Lumpur is still a delight. And, if you happen to be in Malaysia during Chinese New Year, don't forget to try 'Yee Sang' - raw fish with a variety of shredded vegetables and sauces - which is only serve during this time of the year, and it's a symbol of abundance, prosperity and vigor for the coming New Year. As for me, being in Kuala Lumpur for the Chinese New Year is a great way to begin the New Year!