Bing Su

"Bing Su" literally means ice cold water in Korean. It is a popular dessert in South Korea, and it comes in a big tall glass. It has slice bananas, strawberries, rice cakes, red beans, corn flakes top with ice cream on a bed of shaved ice in condensed milk. A delicious dessert after meal, and fun to share with friends. It reminds me of the ice kacang in Malaysia, although looks more sumptuous.

Mostar

Mostar was named after "the bridge keepers" who guarded the Stari Most (Old Bridge) over Neretva River. I came here for one reason: to see the Stari Most. The iconic bridge was heavily damaged in 1993, and fully reconstructed in 2004. When I arrived at the bus station, I was approached by a few middle-aged ladies asking if I needed a place to stay. I checked out a place which was just near the station. The lady, Maida rented her rooms out in her 3-bedroom apartment. The place turned out really nice and clean, and it cost €15 a night. 

Time was 5 pm., and the sun was still shining brightly. I decided to take a walk. As I was walking on Bulevar Revolucije (Revolution Boulevard) toward the Old Town, I came across empty buildings which were bombarded with firepower during the Bosnian War. It was quite an eerie feeling looking at the thousands of marks still left on the walls. They are a reminder to us all the effects and consequences coming from war. After the war, most were either rebuilt or restored with contribution from an international committee established by UNESCO. Mostar has long been known for its old Turkish houses and Stari Most. And, I could see a coexistence of diverse culture, ethnic and religious communities living together here. There is even a China shop here as well. 

The next day I went to Old Town once again. I came across a smaller version of the Old Bridge. It is said that it was a test before the major construction of Stari Most began. On Stari Most, I could see divers getting ready to dive. But wait! They are teasing the onlookers! They'll jump only when there's a huge crowd and don't forget to tip them cause it's customary. There's an Old Bazaar, Kujundziluk, which is named after the goldsmiths who traditionally created and sold their wares on the street, and today, you can still see them selling authentic paintings and copper or bronze carvings of the Stari Most. But unfortunately, the local artisans take so much pride on the bridge that most souvenirs have images of the bridge on them. 

I went to the Old Bridge Museum, and took a panoramic view from the top. I enjoyed myself with a cup of tea, and then I headed to the Main Bus Station for my last destination in Croatia, Dubrovnik. It cost 28 kuna ($6) for a 3 hour ride. 

Split

Croatia has an extensive rail network, but some regions especially further down south from Zadar, are not easily accessible by train. Therefore, it is better to travel on a bus. The cost for a bus ride to Split is 100 kuna ($20) and it takes less than 4 hours. One word of cautious though, the bus station can be pretty chaotic, so make sure you are on the right bus with the right ticket as the buses are run by a few different companies. 

Split is Croatia's second largest city. Home to Diocletian's Palace, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Split offers a wealth of museums and Roman ruins under a dramatic mountain backdrop, and a large promenade facing a vast expanse of the sea. Rather than just a museum piece, Diocletian's Palace is a remarkably well-preserved Roman ruin with shops, cafes, and private accommodations behind its walls. You could see the tradition of the Dalmatian way of life with lines of clothes hanging out of home windows. 

There are a few entrances into the Palace. The ceremonial entrance is a monumental court, called the Peristyle, which gives access to the Diocletian's mausoleum. It is also the location of the Cathedral of St Duje and the Bell Tower, which is the city's main symbol. A few steps below street's level, the ceremonial entrance court is lined with granite columns and two piers with Corinthian capitals. Just outside the Golden Gate, lies the statue of bishop Gregory of Nin, a medieval Croatian bishop. Rubbing the statue's toe is said to bring good luck. As darkness descends over the palace and its surroundings, Split can become a romantic spots for locals and tourists alike. I hung out really late that night cause everywhere is just walking distance. The hostel that I stayed is just 10 minutes walk from the palace, while the bus station is just a 5 minute walk.

The following morning, I went to the Promenade. The sun was shining brightly, and with the avenue glazed with white tiles, the reflection from the sun can be blinding to the eyes. But people seemed to be enjoying the sun on lazy chairs and benches laying along the Promenade under palm trees since summer comes only a few months in a year. That afternoon, I took a 4-hour bus ride (cost 105 kuna or $20) to Mostar in Bosnia.

Zadar

Zadar was the first city I stopped on the Adriatic Sea. It was cloudy, and windy when I arrived early next morning.  I left my bags in the locker, and took the bus to the main town in Zadar. In 1873, the town were converted from fortifications into elevated promenades with towers and gates which commanded an extensive seaward and landward views. Today, inside the ancient town, churches and monasteries that were first built are still left standing alongside with shops and cafes where narrow cobblestones city streets lead to well-preserved charming Renaissance style buildings.

There are four old gates to enter the ancient town. I entered through Porta di Terraferma, designed by the Veronese artist Michele Sanmicheli in the 16th century. Cafes were beginning to pack with customers, and the outdoor market was starting to open up for business. I grabbed a sandwich and began exploring this charming town.

St Donatus' Church, a monumental round building in pre-Romanesque style, is a well-preserved structure of its period in Dalmatia. The massive dome of the rotunda is surrounded by a vaulted gallery in two stories high. And, because of its massive solid structure, you could hear the echo of voices bouncing back and forth. There are remains of foundation embellished with lofty marble columns as well as some remains of a Roman aqueduct outside the church. The Roman Forum, the largest on the eastern side of the Adriatic lies in front of St Mary's Church which is directly opposite St Donatus' Church.  

Other churches worth mentioning here are St Anastasia's Cathedral and Churches of St Chrysogonus and St Simeon, all Romanesque style of very fine proportions.

As the day got cloudier, I walked along the beach, and then headed to the other side of the ancient town. As I crossed the bridge, I saw floating private boats in the harbor along Zadar Channel. Streets here are a little different from the streets in Old Town as they were developed at a later stage when the town grew bigger. I headed back to the train station for my next destination which was Split on a bus. 

Zagreb

Croatia is about the size of West Virginia. With 1,100 miles of mainland coastline, it has one of the most beautiful beaches along the Adriatic Sea. Do you know that it is one of the most popular destinations in the world? And, it is home to seven UNESCO heritage sites?

Continuing my journey from Ljubljana, I took a train to Zagreb. A 2-hour train ride cost €12. Located at King Tomislav Square (Trang Kralja Tomislava), Zagrebački Glavni kolodvor (Zagreb Main Station) is the largest railway station in Croatia. Zagreb is much bigger than Ljubljana. I had to admit that I made a mistake for not booking a place to stay before coming to Zagreb. After hours of walking with two bags in tow, and a blister on my foot, finally I had to settle for a hotel near the Main Train Station. It cost me $115 a night! I learnt my lesson.

I left my bags in a locker at the train station the next morning, and started exploring the city around Bana Jelacica Square, which is the main square in the Old Town of Zagreb. An equestrian statue of General Jelacica stands tall in the middle of the square. Further up, there lies Zagreb Cathedral, the most famous building in Croatia with its spires seen from many locations in the city. There are two other famous cathedrals in Zagreb: St Mark's Church - tiles are laid on its roof to represent the coat of arms of Zagreb and Triune Kingdom of Croatia, Slovania and Dalmatia - and The Church of St. Catherine - famous for its stucco and wooden Baroque altars. 

Further down the road from St Mark's Church is the Stone Gate, a shrine to Virgin Mary where people can light a candle and pray. It's a very sombre atmosphere here, and if you happen to pass by, please be quiet as a respect to the locals praying, and hoping their wishes would be granted.

Time to visit a museum. I decided to go to Strossmayer Gallery of Old Masters, a 19th century neo-Renaissance building which housed permanent European paintings from the 14th to 19th centuries. That day was hot, and it was hot and humid in the museum. I was told that the air conditioner was already running to its full capacity. I wonder what that condition would do to the paintings in the long run.

That night I decided to do a little 'people watching' at King Tomislav Square. It was pretty interesting as people hung out till very late at night. I saw so many men used the place as a public loo, and it made me wondered what would the women do if they have to go? After a sleepless but interesting night, I decided to take a bus (#106) at Kaptol Square to Mirogaj the next morning. Mirogaj is the central cemetery of Zagreb. The mortuary, and the impressive arcades with the church of Christ the King made it one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world. This is where Dr Franco Tudman, Croatia's first President was laid to rest. 

The day was getting hotter. I was beginning to feel agitated after 24-hour without a shower. I got a train ticket to my next destination, Zadar, (cost 156 kuna, approximately $28) departing at 9pm., and then, I took a shower at the Main Train Station (cost 45 kuna, approximately $8). Then I went to a bar for a beer, and watched the Olympic Games. 

Later I've learnt that in the summer months, most tourists and locals would travel to cities located along Croatia's coastline. This explained to me why the city of more than a million people seemed deserted in some areas. Zagreb has good transportation, spacious boulevards and squares. It has twenty theaters and over forty museums and galleries. Therefore, I think it would be a worthwhile stop for two or three days before you decide to head to other cities along the Adriatic Sea.