Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Guatemala


The Mayans are known for their brightly colored yarn-based textiles, which are woven into shirts, blouses, and dresses. In Guatemala, you'll see nothing less in the women's dresses. Their dresses may be simple, but the colors are so vibrant that they can make one of the poorest countries in Latin America appear full of life and vigor.

Guatemala is slightly smaller than Tennessee, and it's located between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. It has a long history of natural disasters which had made the country moved its capital three times between 1542 and 1776. I flew to Guatemala for a week long vacation. As I exited from the Guatemala City's International Airport, there were locals trying to get tourists' attention for any chance they could get to drive them to Antigua. Most guidebooks do not recommend Guatemala City because the city is known as big, dirty and dangerous. I was glad I took my chances when I got a taxi (cost $15) to take me to the Main Square. It turned out the city was not a scary place, but it fact, quite fascinating. 

Plaza Mayor is the main square with the National Palace of Culture (Palacio Nacional de la Cultura) on one side and the Metropolitan Cathedral on the other end. There are a few trees with a fountain on the Main Square where locals like to hang-out and chill. Street vendors selling food and local musicians singing are common activities here. Further down the street at Avenida La Reforma, there are row of shops selling handmade local goods, glasswares and religious figurines. If you explore further down, and the surrounding area you will come across indoor markets selling housewares, dry flowers as well as fresh fruits and vegetables.    

With a little common sense and precautions, I believe you can visit the city with little worry.

I head to Antigua the next morning. A taxi ride will cost around $20 for about two hours ride. Or you can take a private bus which probably cost $10. Antigua is a growing tourist destination, and it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its well-preserved Baroque architecture as well as a number of spectacular ruins of colonial churches. With cobblestones streets, and nice quiet environment, Antigua can be the prefect destination for any vacationer anytime of the year. Nestled between three volcanoes, it is one of the most beautiful towns in Latin America. Food is great too. There are Indian, Japanese, Italian, French, and even Thai cuisines. 

Unlike Plaza Mayor in Guatemala City, the Main Square in Antigua is surrounded by old colonial buildings and churches, with trees lining the square, and benches to sit and relax. On the East side of the square is the cathedral, gleaming in white, and on the West side, is a row of commercial premises known as the Portal del Comercio. The city's municipal offices are located on the North side of the Main Square. There are quite a number of cathedrals and churches in Antigua. Unfortunately, most were heavily damaged by the earthquakes. Saint Joseph Cathedral, Santo Domingo Monastery, Sierra Cathedral and ruins of old San Jose are some of the sights you may want to visit.

Night can be cold here. Streets are quiet, safe and dimly lit. Try a bowl of 'kaqik' (traditional Mayan turkey soup). It's really delicious and exceptional good for a cold night in Antigua. 

From Antigua, I went to Panajachel (cost $5 on a private bus). I took a 'chicken bus' to my home stay experience in LaLaguna, a little town near Panajachel. 'Chicken bus' is regular bus in Guatemala. It is an old school bus, and it comes mainly from North America. It is reworked and repainted into regular bus with its own character on the exterior. It does get packed with customers, and it transports anything from live poultry to carts of fresh produce.

I decided to go back to Panajachel to stay the nex day. I hitched a ride there. The driver did not speak any English, but he knew where I wanted to go. I tipped him $2 for his kindness. Calle Santander is the main street in Panajachel. It's a busy street with handicrafts stores, restaurants, travel agencies, internet cafes and bars. Street vendors are everywhere. Several different cultures from the surrounding villages come and sell their handicrafts to tourists. You have to keep walking to avoid being approached by them. The street ends where Lago de Atitlán (Lake Atitla) begins.

Lago de Atitlán is one of the world's most spectacular locales. Diamond splatters dance across the water, fertile hills dot the landscape, and over everything loom the volcanoes, permeating the entire area with a mysterious beauty. Depending on the day, it never looks the same twice. You can take a boat ride around the lake. The trip takes about 2 1/2 hours and it cost $30. 

Some of the interesting villages are St Marcos, St Pedro and St Antonio. In these villages, the locals live a very simple life. Poverty is a common sight here. Children work day and night. Most kids have only 6 years of education as not too many families could afford higher education for their children. Basic necessities are the order of the day.

That Sunday, I had the opportunity to go to Chichicastenango or better known as Chi Chi. It's a 2 hour ride and cost $5. Once called Chaviar, Chi Chi was an important trading town long before the Spanish conquest. Surrounded by valleys, Chi Chi seems to be isolated in time, with its narrow cobbled streets and red-tiled roofs often enveloped in mist, it can look magical. The market opens only on Thursdays and Sundays, and when it does, crowds of crafts vendors and tour groups would flock the streets in droves. In the midst of commercialism, Chi Chi remains beautiful and interesting, with lots of spiritual and ceremonial overtones. It is known for its adherence to pre-Christian religious beliefs. On the steps of Santo Tomás cathedral, ladies are adorned in their traditional Mayan attire selling fresh flowers while rituals are being performed in and around the cathedral. 

The culture of Guatemala reflects a strong Mayan and Spanish influences in the country. Despite its social problems, Guatemala is magical. Its cultures and beliefs, the mountains and lake, the markets and cathedrals, you're bound to be captivated. People come and they stay. Others leave and return.