Looking back at 2012

PANAMA CITY AND PORTOBELO

REYKJAVIK AND HVERAGEROI

ISTANBUL AND BURSA

ZURICH

LISBON AND PORTO

Lisbon

I vaguely remember my last visit to Lisbon 10 years ago.

My recollection about Lisbon is that getting around the city is like going through a maze of streets that rise and fall across hills that dwindle into alleyways and stairways most of the time.  There are a few interesting neighborhoods which are all within walking distance from the city center. The standout neighborhoods are Alfama, Bairro Alto, Baixa, Belem and Chiado, and except for Belem, these places are covered in the free guided walking tour which takes about two to three hours. Pioneered by Chis Sanderman back in 2004 in Berlin, the concept is gaining popularity throughout the world today.

I'm glad I took the tour on the first day of my stay in Lisbon together with a friend. "This time of the year is low season in Portugal." said Jose, our tour guide. This explained to us why the hostel that we stayed in was not full, streets were pretty quiet the night before, and we were the only people in the tour. But whose complaining!

Bairro Alto is in central Lisbon. It is not just a residential, and shopping district but it is also the heart of the city's nightlife for its youth. At night, it is home to punk, gay, metal, hip hop and reggae scenes, just to name a few, with a mix of culture and people. This is the place to be at night reiterated Jose, although Fado, Portugal's national music is still popular in this part of the city. Baixa or downtown Lisbon, is the city center with shopping and banking activities that stretches from the riverfront to Avenida da Liberdade, which has streets named according to the storeowners and craftsmen who traded in the area. I particularly liked its pedestrians' only streets, cafes and shops with tiled walkways and Art Deco shopfronts. On my first night, I had a great buffet dinner for 7 Euro! 

Alfama is the oldest district in Lisbon. It used to be inhabited by fishermen and the poor before, but today it is a historical quarter of homes and small businesses, with maze of narrow streets and small squares. My guide took us to for a shot of ginjinha, a favorite liqueur for many Portuguese on any given day. Belem is one of the most visited district in Lisbon. Although it is not within walking distance, it is less than 15 minutes from the downtown Lisbon. Belem's major historical building is the Jerónimos Monastery, classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983 along with Tower of Belem. Within the monastery, there's a church which lies the stone tombs of Vasco da Gama and Luis de Camoes. My friend and I had lunch at a local restaurant. I ordered grilled octopus, and it tasted really delicious.

We went to Porto from Lisbon for the weekend. The journey is less than 4 hours, and the train is pretty comfortable. Registered as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1996, Porto was an outpost for the Roman Empire many centuries ago. Today, it is internationally known for its port wine. The highlight of my trip to Porto is to discover the market, Mercado do Bolhao which is situated in the heart of the city. Built in 1914, it is pretty rundown but well-maintained in a two level opened air building. It looks like a place counting its last days on earth. I would recommend anyone to go there before it soon disappears. 

I loved Porto. One side of the city along Douro River is the old quarter consisting many alleys and streets for the prying eyes to explore, while on the other 'new' side, there are countless signs of port wine names the city is famous for. On the last night in Porto, I came across a souvenir shop, and to my surprise I saw what I had been dreaming to get before I started the trip, a typical Portuguese clog. I started collecting traditional clogs/shoes of countries I've visited only recently, and now I am a proud owner of three different pairs! 

My friend left Porto for Paris the next morning. After a morning walk, I left Porto back to Lisbon for a night stay before my departure back to New York the next day.

Christmas in Lisbon

The Holiday Spirits in Zurich

Christmas in Zurich

Black Friday is the day after Thanksgiving Day in the United States. Traditionally, the day marks the beginning of Christmas shopping season in America. This indicates the point at which retailers begin to turn a profit for the year. 

Thanksgiving Day in Zurich is like any other day. However, this year the city is enjoying an unprecedented warm weather.  As the sun sets, Bahnhofstrasse is lit with thousands of LEDs, also known as "Lucy" - a system of Christmas illuminations shimmering the night sky along the fame shopping street in the city. For the third time this year, shops in the city center remain open until ten at night luring shoppers and tourists in a shopping mood for the coming festive seasons with a vast assortment of goods, and culinary temptations.

Vendors selling homemade jams and breads, are busy tempting passersby with samples around Globus, a major departmental store with high end products in line with Bergdorf Goodman New York.  One has to be here to appreciate this magnificent extravaganza. And, I am glad I did.

The last trip I ever experienced the Holiday Spirits was in London two years ago. I had the time of my life maneuvering my way in the crowd on Oxford Street during Boxing Day. The double-decker red buses underneath the hanging lights of giant wrappers were so picture perfect. I told myself, if I ever had the chance to travel again, it would have to be around the Holiday Seasons. 

Back in Zurich's main train station, the concourse is transformed into a huge indoor market square. The '"Christkindlimarkt" has more than 100 individual vendors selling anything ranges from bags, candles to teas and Swiss cheese. Bathing the stalls in a joyful glow is a 15-meter Christmas tree magnificently adorned with thousands of glittering Swarovski crystals. Coming to Zurich is not just about seeing and experiencing the Holiday Spirits, it also gives me the chance to see some good old friends of mine.

I stayed at Kelvin's apartment, my childhood friend from Malaysia living in Zurich now. We went to Bad Sackingen, an old town in southern Germany which borders Stein in Switzerland with Steven and his significant other. My friends go there once a month for grocery shopping. Things are a lot cheaper. I was told to get my chocolate there, and I did. I came back to Zurich with a 9 kilogram bag full of different kinds of chocolate! 

That night, Kelvin and I went to Club T&M. The club is Zurich's first gay disco with live shows, and it was celebrating its 25 years anniversary. Sad to say there will not be another anniversary next year as it is closing early part of 2013. "I used to perform there as a guest." Kelvin said. It kind of reminded me the good and bad times we had when we were oh so young.

I met with Bjorn and Toy at Grand Cafe Odeon over the weekend. Cafe Odeon is more than 100 years old, and it is reputed as a meeting point for intellectuals for decades. Its art-nouveau interior, and crystalized chandelier are attractions to many patrons who go there. We proceeded to Restaurant Zeughauskeller to have deer meat and rosti, a Swiss dish consisted of potatoes. 

This place was used to be a storage for armory, and grain before it was turn into a restaurant in 1927. Many of the origin beams and walls are still preserved today. Bjorn and Toy insisted that I should stayed with them in Basel that night. I was really tempted but unfortunately, time was not on my side. I have to take a rain check, and I am keeping my fingers crossed that my invitation is still valid the next time I visit Zurich again.

My last day in Zurich was meeting up with Bruno in Old Town. He took me to Peclard Zurich for tea. Peclard is a boutique coffeehouse which is decorated with pastries, coffees and teas on its ground floor. As we head to the first floor, it revealed a room filled with velvety red from its chairs to the walls. It was a feeling of coziness sipping tea with an old friend while the weather was cold and depressing out there. I asked Bruno if it would be a crime to take the beautiful light blue menu with a red ribbon on its side. "Open your bag." he insisted. I did, and the next thing we were laughing like kids being offered candies from the owner.

I had a blast in Zurich. I came to see the Christmas lights and the market square. Instead I was transported back in time with friends, experiencing things I had never did before. Thank you wonderful people, and I hope to see you all very soon.

Guatemala

The Mayans are known for their brightly colored yarn-based textiles, which are woven into shirts, blouses, and dresses. In Guatemala, you'll see nothing less in the women's dresses. Their dresses may be simple, but the colors are so vibrant that they can make one of the poorest countries in Latin America appear full of life and vigor.

Guatemala is slightly smaller than Tennessee, and it's located between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. It has a long history of natural disasters which had made the country moved its capital three times between 1542 and 1776. I flew to Guatemala for a week long vacation. As I exited from the Guatemala City's International Airport, there were locals trying to get tourists' attention for any chance they could get to drive them to Antigua. Most guidebooks do not recommend Guatemala City because the city is known as big, dirty and dangerous. I was glad I took my chances when I got a taxi (cost $15) to take me to the Main Square. It turned out the city was not a scary place, but it fact, quite fascinating. 

Plaza Mayor is the main square with the National Palace of Culture (Palacio Nacional de la Cultura) on one side and the Metropolitan Cathedral on the other end. There are a few trees with a fountain on the Main Square where locals like to hang-out and chill. Street vendors selling food and local musicians singing are common activities here. Further down the street at Avenida La Reforma, there are row of shops selling handmade local goods, glasswares and religious figurines. If you explore further down, and the surrounding area you will come across indoor markets selling housewares, dry flowers as well as fresh fruits and vegetables.    

With a little common sense and precautions, I believe you can visit the city with little worry.

I head to Antigua the next morning. A taxi ride will cost around $20 for about two hours ride. Or you can take a private bus which probably cost $10. Antigua is a growing tourist destination, and it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its well-preserved Baroque architecture as well as a number of spectacular ruins of colonial churches. With cobblestones streets, and nice quiet environment, Antigua can be the prefect destination for any vacationer anytime of the year. Nestled between three volcanoes, it is one of the most beautiful towns in Latin America. Food is great too. There are Indian, Japanese, Italian, French, and even Thai cuisines. 

Unlike Plaza Mayor in Guatemala City, the Main Square in Antigua is surrounded by old colonial buildings and churches, with trees lining the square, and benches to sit and relax. On the East side of the square is the cathedral, gleaming in white, and on the West side, is a row of commercial premises known as the Portal del Comercio. The city's municipal offices are located on the North side of the Main Square. There are quite a number of cathedrals and churches in Antigua. Unfortunately, most were heavily damaged by the earthquakes. Saint Joseph Cathedral, Santo Domingo Monastery, Sierra Cathedral and ruins of old San Jose are some of the sights you may want to visit.

Night can be cold here. Streets are quiet, safe and dimly lit. Try a bowl of 'kaqik' (traditional Mayan turkey soup). It's really delicious and exceptional good for a cold night in Antigua. 

From Antigua, I went to Panajachel (cost $5 on a private bus). I took a 'chicken bus' to my home stay experience in LaLaguna, a little town near Panajachel. 'Chicken bus' is regular bus in Guatemala. It is an old school bus, and it comes mainly from North America. It is reworked and repainted into regular bus with its own character on the exterior. It does get packed with customers, and it transports anything from live poultry to carts of fresh produce.

I decided to go back to Panajachel to stay the nex day. I hitched a ride there. The driver did not speak any English, but he knew where I wanted to go. I tipped him $2 for his kindness. Calle Santander is the main street in Panajachel. It's a busy street with handicrafts stores, restaurants, travel agencies, internet cafes and bars. Street vendors are everywhere. Several different cultures from the surrounding villages come and sell their handicrafts to tourists. You have to keep walking to avoid being approached by them. The street ends where Lago de Atitlán (Lake Atitla) begins.

Lago de Atitlán is one of the world's most spectacular locales. Diamond splatters dance across the water, fertile hills dot the landscape, and over everything loom the volcanoes, permeating the entire area with a mysterious beauty. Depending on the day, it never looks the same twice. You can take a boat ride around the lake. The trip takes about 2 1/2 hours and it cost $30. 

Some of the interesting villages are St Marcos, St Pedro and St Antonio. In these villages, the locals live a very simple life. Poverty is a common sight here. Children work day and night. Most kids have only 6 years of education as not too many families could afford higher education for their children. Basic necessities are the order of the day.

That Sunday, I had the opportunity to go to Chichicastenango or better known as Chi Chi. It's a 2 hour ride and cost $5. Once called Chaviar, Chi Chi was an important trading town long before the Spanish conquest. Surrounded by valleys, Chi Chi seems to be isolated in time, with its narrow cobbled streets and red-tiled roofs often enveloped in mist, it can look magical. The market opens only on Thursdays and Sundays, and when it does, crowds of crafts vendors and tour groups would flock the streets in droves. In the midst of commercialism, Chi Chi remains beautiful and interesting, with lots of spiritual and ceremonial overtones. It is known for its adherence to pre-Christian religious beliefs. On the steps of Santo Tomás cathedral, ladies are adorned in their traditional Mayan attire selling fresh flowers while rituals are being performed in and around the cathedral. 

The culture of Guatemala reflects a strong Mayan and Spanish influences in the country. Despite its social problems, Guatemala is magical. Its cultures and beliefs, the mountains and lake, the markets and cathedrals, you're bound to be captivated. People come and they stay. Others leave and return.

Car wash in less than 10 minutes for $2

Chaplin the Musical

How would you depict the life of a great screen legend in a 2-hour musical? Not easy when it is the life of Charlie Chaplin who died at the age of 88 in 1977. 

I am fortunate to have seen the preview of Chaplin The Musical on Broadway at the Ethel Barrymore Theatre. Chaplin has a controversial life but in the hands of Christopher Curtis and Warren Carlyle, his life is piece together with creative simplicity that people of all ages are able to enjoy the show.

Costumes and sets are all set in hues of gray, giving the entire show an implication of the early days in entertainment. The show dazzled its audience by having the actor coming in and out of character from the screen projector to the stage. I particularly like the scene when it shows the women in Chaplin's life - how each and every marriage ended with them, and what they got from the divorce settlement in a boxing ring arena. Chaplin got punched and kicked, and every wife parted with some of his fortunes. Toward the end of the show, Charlie Chaplin looked ahead of the horizon showing on the screen. As he walked toward the screen, his character slowly 'disappeared' into the screen as if the audience is usher back to the cinematic past of the show.

The Chinese may be catching up in almost every aspects in the current world situation but the American is miles away when it comes to the entertainment industry. It would be interesting to see a musical depicting the life of Confucius by the Chinese. I don't think the Chinese is capable of doing that yet although the Olympics 2008 did gives the American a peek of what it's to come in the not too distance future. Today, the sun still shines brightly in the land of The Golden State.

Gone are the days when music and songs rule the world on Broadway. I recall how audience were mesmerized by the historical events from Les Miserables, awed by the shattering chandelier in Phantom of the Opera, and captivated by the love triangle in Miss Saigon. These  broadway classics have such memorable moments from songs such as "'I Dreamed A Dream" to "Music Of The Night" and "I'd Give My Life To You". Till today, I can still hum these tunes as if I had just watched them. In comparison, Chaplin looks like a play with music and song playing the supporting role at best. I can't remember any of its song the moment the curtain draws to a close to a standing ovation from the audience. 

In my opinion, Chaplin the Musical does not rise to the occasion to reveal its full potential. 

Istanbul

The Arab man sitting next to me snapped his fingers for attention. "Don't do that. Don't do that. That is very rude. What do you want?", retorted the stewardess from the Malaysian Airlines flight to Istanbul. He was shocked, and so was I by the spontaneity of the flight attendant.

Istanbul is one of the world's largest cities by population. I remember taking a cruise along Bosphorus 15 years ago. The images of Sultan Ahmed Mosque and Hagia Sophia are still very clear on my mind as the plane descended on the runway at Istanbul Atatürk Airport.

Ramadan falls on the third week of July this year in the Islamic world, and the vast majority of people across Turkey are Muslim. A lot of restaurants are closed during the day, although there are a few which are open to serve the non-Muslim community. With the scorching hot July weather, people are seen preserving their energy by resting under shades throughout the city. The mosque is a good place to hide from the sun during the day. Mosques are seen almost everywhere with most designs primarily from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. With more than 2,000 active mosques in Istanbul alone, it is better to visit the major ones if you are only here for a few days . One fine example is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, popularly known as the Blue Mosque for the blue tiles adorning the walls of its interior. It is overwhelming in size with six minarets along with eight domes and a main one. 

On the opposite side of the mosque is Hagia Sophia. A former Orthodox patriarchal  basilica, and later a mosque, it is now a museum in Istanbul. The museum is one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture. It is richly decorated with mosaics, and it is filled with holy relics, paintings, and artifacts. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque and Hagia Sophia are two of the most recognizable monuments in Istanbul. Just right behind Hagia Sophia, lies Topkapi Palace, the crown jewel of the Ottoman Empire. It may be a good idea to go on a weekday as it can be very crowded on weekends. Overlooking Istanbul Bogazici (Bosphorus) and the Marmara Sea, you can enjoy a nice view on the Asian side of Istanbul. 

When it comes to shopping, Istanbul is never short of places to go. The Grand Bazaar and Taksim Square are two major shopping areas. The Grand Bazaar has over 3,000 shops, and it is a shopping haven for both locals and tourists alike with merchandise ranging from Turkish rugs to leather goods and jewelries. Walking through the Grand Bazaar is like walking through a maze of small alleys with hidden treasures. And remember before you head out to the Grand Bazaar, don't leave home without your American Express. Taksim Square is the location of the Monument of the Republic. Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) is the major long pedestrian shopping street that connects to other side streets and passages. The most interesting part of these streets and passages is that they lead you to a whole new world. I have seen hidden restaurants, cafes, specialties stores, and even a market that sells fresh produce. 

Istanbul can be a very nice city to walk around on a clear day. With a pair of comfortable shoes, I would recommend anyone to take the tram (TR1) to Tophane and wonder around the surrounding including the Galata Tower which provide a magnificent view of the Golden Horn. I find that fresh orange juice is best to quench thirst, and it cost only $1. 

The Galata Bridge is the heart of Istanbul, spanning the Golden Horn from Karaköy on the north to Old Istanbul, centered on Sultanahmet, on the south. It is not too far from the Tower. On one side of the bridge, ferries are busy transporting passengers to their destinations. And, on the other side, there are floating restaurants, street performers, and vendors. On the top deck, the bridge is full of anglers from one end to the other, while the lower deck are mostly restaurants.

Ramadan usually last 29-30 days which begins daily at dawn and ends at sunset. Young and old mingle at store-front before sunset. Friends and families gather at restaurants to break fast for the day. While children are playing nearby, the elder chat with one another in park benches. There is a strong sense of community bonding here.

The city has changed quite a bit since my last visit. It is more crowded than ever. Public transportation has improved with tram, metro, light rail, bus, funicular and maritime all serving more than 13 million inhabitants. Modern skyscrapers are slowly changing the skyline. These changes remind me of the days when Malaysian Airlines was one of the top airlines in the world. But today, this is no longer true. The inflight entertainment is as old as the days when cellphone is like a 10-pound block of brick. The service is as bad as the food. And, lastly, the appearance of the flight attendant who snapped at the poor Arab man needs to get her hair extension a thorough blow and style before she starts her next shift the next time.

Meeting with a friend in Wales

I flew to Dublin a day after my birthday. I thought I gave myself a treat, and also, because a very good friend of mine, Chin had a place to stay in Swansea, Wales. I was feeling lousy the morning I arrived at the Dublin International Airport. I had to wait for 2 hours before the first bus leaves for the city (€2 per trip). Surprisingly, traffic was heavy probably due to the morning rush hour, and as the bus moved slowly on the road, I could see beautiful tiny houses on both sides. It took nearly an hour and a half to reach the city center. It was a pretty cold spring weather in Dublin.

Dublin is among the top cities to live in the world, and constantly ranked one of the most expensive cities as well. At the last stop, I saw this pointy steel beam in the center of city. It is Dublin's newest monument, Spire of Dublin, or officially titled "Monument of Light". It is a 121.2 meters (398 feet) conical spire made of stainless steel and is located on O'Connell Street. During the day it maintains its steel appearance, but at dusk the monument appears to merge into the sky. The base of the monument is lit and the top is illuminated to provide a beacon in the night sky across the city. I crossed the bridge over River Liffey, and I could see the Ha'penny Bridge (officially called the Liffey Bridge, built as a pedestrian bridge in 1816) on the right side. As I was traveling light, I had my bag with me. I walked over to Trinity College as I had wanted to see The Book of Kells, which is by far the Library's most famous book and is located in the Old Library, along with the Book of Durrow, the Book of Howth and other ancient texts. Also incorporating the Long Room, the Old Library is one of Ireland's biggest tourist attractions, and holds thousands of rare, and in many cases very early, volumes. This explained to me why there was a long line of Japanese tourists, all had wanted to see the same thing. 

I headed out and began looking for a pharmacy. The migraine was killing me. Thank goodness I found one. I went for a cup of tea, and took my aspirins. I sat for a while. With the migraine gone, I went to Templer Bar, best known for its nightlife. There are lots of bars, restaurants, and cafes. Definitely, an area that is becoming popular among tourists. It was developed as Dublin's cultural quarter and does retain the spirit as a center for studios, small music venues, and arts productions. I almost covered all the top attractions around the city center, and with the time on my side, I decided to take a bus to Kilmainham Gaol, one of the largest unoccupied gaols in Europe. The attractions include an exhibition detailing the political and penal history and its restoration.

Early next morning, I had to go to the bus station for my ferry to Holyhead, Wales at 8 am. I was shocked to see so much garbage on the street after a Friday night of booze and party in Dublin on O'Connell Street. I took the Stena Line ferry at Dun Laoghaire ferry terminal (cost €30 per trip). The regular service is a 3 hour journey (express is 2 hours). As I leave the port in Holyhead, I was stopped by the immigration officers; they questioned my intention of going to Wales (stupid questions like 'do you speak English?' etc), and my luggage was searched thoroughly (item by item - I should have a 1,000-year egg in my bag!). When I finally showed them my green card, they let me go. I thought that was stupid. I managed to get a train to Conwy. The ride was enjoyable, and scenic. I went to Conwy Castle - designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built between 1283 and 1289 on a rock promontory to prevent undermining and also guard the entrance to the River Conwy. And, Conwy is a walled market town, and it is a popular tourist town in Wales.

From there, I took a connecting train to Swansea. It took 4 hours to get there. When I got off the train, Chin was already there to greet me. Swansea is a coastal city located on the sandy South West Wales. It is the second most populous city in Wales. It was one of the key centers of the world copper industry during the Industrial Revolution. But today, the town is a little quiet, and I did not see much going on here. Chin's place was up on a hill in a quiet neighborhood about 20 minutes from the town center. I could see the pretty bright night sky from the backyard.

The next day, it was rainy, windy and cold. But that did not deter us from going to Gower. It was an hour ride from the main bus station (cost £2). Gower is a peninsula on the south west coast of Wales and it was the first area in the United Kingdom to be designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1956. About 70 square miles (180 km) in area, Gower is known for its coastline, popular with walkers and outdoor enthusiasts, especially surfers. That day it was so windy that the waves kept pounding the shore. 

 After a day in the cold, we went back to Swansea, and sat down for a nice hot chocolate in a cafe. 

I left Swansea for Holyhead next day, although I wished I had stayed longer. I made a quick stop at Shrewsbury, another historic market town in the West Midlands region of England. I spent some time there, and arrived back in Dublin later that day. I checked into a hostel in Templer Bar. On my last day before my departure back to New York, I went to the Guinness Storehouse for a visit (cost €15). At the Guinness Storehouse you'll discover all there is to know about the world famous beer. Not as fascinating as I thought it would have been. I bought some Guinness candies, stopped at Christ Church Cathedral, and went straight to the airport. 

 One thing I like about this trip is that it was short, enjoyable, and hassle free, and most of all, it was nice to see an old friend in a place I would never thought of going.