Sunday, April 19, 2015

Best of the Bests

Probably I am one of the last few who have yet to see Angkor Wat, one of the seventh wonders of the world today. The day is finally here as I landed at Siem Reap International Airport, and greeted by tuk-tuk drivers asking me where I would like to go.

The extreme hot sun in the morning and dust from the road make me feel uncomfortable as the driver takes me to the center of town. I’m all excited about Angkor Wat, and I booked the same tuk-tuk for the next morning to catch a glimpse of the rising sun behind the temples. “To see sunrise, we have to leave from hostel at 5 am”, the driver reminded me. “And it’s extra $5”, he said before taking off.

March is hot in Cambodia, and comes April it will get even hotter. I could feel the back of my tee shirt soaking wet as I stood at the hostel reception for an early check in. After a quick shower, sun block and hat, I head out to the Old Market Square. As I walked toward my intended place, I could see tuk-tuks everywhere, parked by roadsides as well as other hotspots where shops and restaurants are located giving me signs that demands are less than supplies. The Old Market offers almost anything and everything that one could imagine. With dim lights and  most come from natural sunlight beaming from the rooftop, it makes me wonder what else could be crawling on the wet floor of the produced section. Other sections include souvenirs, clothing, food and there are even salons and manicures. On the other side of the Siem Reap River, is the Night Market. It is smaller, cleaner and definitely a lot more brighter.  Here you find lots of silver, beads and other local designs. The day seems to get hotter by the hour, and fortunately streets are filled with vendors selling cold drinks as well as fruit shakes for only $1.

I find myself waiting for sunrise at Angkor Wat the next morning at 5.30. The prime spot is by the pond but unfortunately the area is already filled with delighted spectators. While the wait is long, sunrise happened very swiftly. By 7.30 am I’m at Sranh Srang and Banteay Kdei. In Sranh Srang, there is a concrete stage facing the lake guarded by two lion statues. This is a popular site for viewing the sunrise. Things get better from there. Ta Prohm is one of the most photogenic temples in Angkor. Trees and their trunks outgrown the ruins and some even perched through windows and doors giving the temple a look of a natural wonder. I’m glad I was there first before groups of Japanese and Chinese tourists throng the temple posing for pictures. 

A few stops along the way, I finally get to Bayon. The temple’s most distinctive feature is the massive stone faces on most of the towers, all sides are adorned with these serene faces that could have lasting memory on anyone visiting the place. With these faces smiling upon me as I looked up,  Bayon is definitely a place to find peace amidst the hot weather here at Angkor. I found mine here. Angkor Wat is the temple of all temples in Siem Reap. Do you know that it is the largest religious monument in the world? I didn’t know that but I felt my tired feet needing breaks as I tried to cover every spot surrounding this temple. As the best-preserved temple at the site, it is the pride of the people in Cambodia and it represents the top of the high classical style of Khmer architecture. I’m done for the day after admiring the endless walls of Hindu mythology with intricate carving from top to bottom at the temple.

There are lots more to cover at this massive  UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I do not want to overwhelm myself on my first trip here. I’ll leave the rest for my next trip. 

Battambang is less than 3 hours by bus from Siem Reap. Its old town center has one of the most attractive French Colonial architectures in Cambodia. A sleepy town with nothing much to do except for its infamous bamboo train which is a bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small portable engine. As it consists only one track and one way, passengers from the opposite direction have to disembark and train has to be disassembled for the passing train. I met an Australian who just opened up a boutique hotel with an exclusive store selling soaps and other gifts and souvenirs. Business is slow he claims, and I could see why. One cook book costs $35 in US dollars! This is probably a week’s pay for most people here.

Looking back at the pictures today, I am glad I visited Angkor Wat. It gives me the impression that arts and history in Asia is very much alive, rich and colorful. 




Friday, April 10, 2015

Quality of Life or Lifestyle?

I travel back to Kuala Lumpur from the US since 2007. The last 7 years I have seen amazing changes in the city’s skyline. As the city progresses, countless new developments come in rapid pace and endless flyovers and light transit system intertwine with existing ones.
Highrise condominiums and retail complexes are mushrooming like wild fire in the city. Although there are improvements in some areas but are they truly beneficial to the Chans, Ahmads and Gopals?

Quality of life is an opportunity for the inhabitants to enjoy the space that mother nature has bestowed us. Unfortunately, we have been robbed by unscrupulous developers and greedy authorities with multi-million projects and diminishing green lungs. Quality of life is finding solutions to ease mobility for the residents to move from one place to another at the shortest period of time. Although public transportation has improved in general, progress is still in snail pace. Quality of life means freedom to express ourselves, but unfortunately, we have to watch our back constantly.

We may have world class hotels, designer shops, and specialty cafes but does the existence of these world class amenities actually improved the way we live? Talking to small business owners and cab drivers, everyone is trying to keep their noses above water. No one is happy at the direction the country is going. No one is happy that the once rich country is in huge debt. No one is happy that the officials are pretending that everything is fine with the country.

As I sat and glanced outside the window of the taxi, I saw uncertainties just like the many new flyovers and rail transit tracks shooting up above ground, polluting the once beautiful skyline with noise and concrete dull cement. It is such an ugly sight. We are being outpaced by countries that were once trailing behind. Cost of living has overtook our purchasing power of goods. A recent trip to Cambodia was a reality check to the value of the country’s currency. The fact is a price of noodle soup is pricier than one in Kuala Lumpur is something that the country should be worried about.


Quality of life? I think not. These changes are merely a lifestyle that we have to get use to them. A lifestyle that is merely a window dressing for the rest of the world to see. I’m experiencing a lifestyle of unaffordable luxury which was once attainable to the middle income families. Pretty sad for a country on its road to achieve develop nation status in 2020.

Monday, April 6, 2015

Ready for Angkor Wat


As sun rises above Angkor Wat, hundreds of tourists flash out their cameras, phones, and iPads to take pictures of this enormous temple known as the seventh wonder of the world.