The destination wedding that my friend has been planning since the beginning of last year is finally here. The place is in Medellin Colombia.
Medellin was notorious for its drugs cartel that it was once dubbed “the most dangerous city in the world”. Crime rate was 20 times more than the average in the United States back in 2008. The drugs cartel collapsed few years ago, and today there are millions of visitors to Medellin for its weather, affordable living and economic opportunities.
I decided to go visit Cartagena first. A day before my departure I received an email from Copa Airlines informing me that I have been upgraded to business class. “Hmmm, this is going to be a good trip”, I said to myself.
Cartagena is an attractive town with a city wall around its historical old town. Here you will find some of the finest Spanish architectures with narrow alleys, cafes and shops selling local designs and crafts. As sunsets (which is the best time), you can take a walk up the old city wall to enjoy the view with a nice breeze coming from the ocean. If you are hunger for some decent local fare, there is roadside stall selling ceviche not far from the entrance of the Clock Tower Building. The ceviche comes in different sizes and each has different price ranging from 5,000 pesos to 27,000 pesos. I chose a 20,000 pesos size cup with chipi chipi (small clams) and calamar (squids). It was creamy, delicious and hearty. Indeed a delicious meal to end my first night in Colombia.
There is an interesting part of the city where the historical Old City ends, and it is Getsemani, an up-and-coming trendy area with graffiti and rundown houses acting as backdrop for a lively neighborhood at night. This area is filled with local pubs, restaurants, and cafes intertwine with the local street vendors, and family run businesses. Plaza de Santisma Trinidad is a yellow 17th century church popular with locals. At anytime of the day or night, you’ll find locals sitting by its footsteps enjoying each other company while school children play soccer nearby. If you wander to Calle de la Sierpe, you find graffiti canvased on walls of well-worn buildings with Spanish arches. Here you will see locals in this neighborhood minding their daily chores with kids and their pets playing outside their homes.
If you get thirsty, stop a vendor for local coffee served on a paper cup. Or even fruits from a seller who can peel the skin off the fruit on the spot.
The San Felipe Castle is a huge attraction in Cartagena. It is a fortress sitting on top the Hill of Fan Lazaro, and it was built to protect the city from the pirates and war. After 5 pm is probably the best time to go as direct sunlight in the day can be extremely hot and dangerous. The castle is very well-preserved and it is striking for its grand entrance and maze of tunnels.
Before I took this trip, I heard so much about traveling on a bus from Cartagena to Medellin. The journey takes too long, the bus is freezing cold, and the movies just too loud. It turns out to be an interesting experience I had for a long time. Journey takes 14 hours, it is cold; I’m assuming this came from the altitude as the bus needs to travel uphill heading to Medellin. Instead of seeing lush greens, I’m seeing garbage lying all over along the way. As for the bus, my only complaint is the filthy toilet at the back.
Day before the wedding, guests from the US had dinner with the bride and groom to be. After dinner, the wedding couple arranged for a Chiva bus that took us round the city for a night of fun, dance and drink. Chiva bus is an artisan rustic bus used to carry people, livestocks and merchandise. These buses are varied in color and design with the character resembled the person who runs the bus as well as the person who painted it. I had no idea where we stopped, but at every stop there was always a photo op for everyone.
The wedding was held at Casa Santa Monica, a posh event hall in Medellin. It was a night of drinks and dance, food and wine, tears of joy and fun. Seeing the couple exchanged their wows was so touching and memorable. Thanks Ky and Juan for the invite. It was my first destination wedding and I’m pretty sure it would be on my mind for a very long time.
Medellin is the second largest city in Colombia. It is located at 5,000 feet above sea level, which makes its climate as hot as other cities located at the same latitude, and temperatures can be cooler on the surrounding mountains and once sunsets, it just feels perfectly cool and nice.
Juan told me that it could be dangerous in certain parts of the city at night especially downtown. Being grew up in a tough neighborhood myself, I went first for the metro cable car ride. At the metro station San Domingo, I transferred for free for the cable car. It was a pleasant ride as the car ascend to the hilltop, with the slums of the Medellin below. I got down at the very last stop and took a walk. Heading back I went downtown. It was a pretty chaotic scene with street vendors everywhere, and as it was rush hour the metro was crowded with people heading home just like any big city in the world.
Plaza Botero and its surrounding is another interesting place to go. The plaza that leads to the museum feels like an open air museum as it is filled with bronze sculptures by Fernando Botero, a Colombian sculpture known for creating bloated and oversized people and animals. I was told that the artist donated all of the sculptures at the plaza which are more than 20, and each has an estimated price tag of US $1M.
I find that the Colombians are extremely helpful when you approach them although communication between me and them are limited to ’si’ and finger pointing. As the walking tour guide was telling the group,” Tell all friends about what you see in Colombia, it is a very safe place to visit today.” I felt the same way too.
A trip the Medellin would not be complete without a day trip to Guatape. It is like going to Disneyworld but without the rides. The picturesque town is known as the Pueblo de Zócalos, named for the beautifully sculpted and painted depictions of village life that adorn the lower half of most buildings in town. The boardwalk by the waterfront is filled with local vendors selling beautiful handicrafts, souvenirs and food, and the adventurous can take a ride on the canopy zipline over the lake.
The region's most famous attraction is a 200+ meter high rock outcropping that towers over the surrounding area. It's officially named El Peñon de Guatapé, but more commonly known as La Piedra (The Stone). Over 600 stairs have been built into the side of this enormous geological marvel, allowing safe access to the top, where it offers spectacular views of the lake and surrounding areas, as well as snacks and drinks for the visitors. And who wouldn’t want a snack or drink after a long climb up to the top?
