Istanbul

The Arab man sitting next to me snapped his fingers for attention. "Don't do that. Don't do that. That is very rude. What do you want?", retorted the stewardess from the Malaysian Airlines flight to Istanbul. He was shocked, and so was I by the spontaneity of the flight attendant.

Istanbul is one of the world's largest cities by population. I remember taking a cruise along Bosphorus 15 years ago. The images of Sultan Ahmed Mosque and Hagia Sophia are still very clear on my mind as the plane descended on the runway at Istanbul Atatürk Airport.

Ramadan falls on the third week of July this year in the Islamic world, and the vast majority of people across Turkey are Muslim. A lot of restaurants are closed during the day, although there are a few which are open to serve the non-Muslim community. With the scorching hot July weather, people are seen preserving their energy by resting under shades throughout the city. The mosque is a good place to hide from the sun during the day. Mosques are seen almost everywhere with most designs primarily from the Byzantine and Ottoman eras. With more than 2,000 active mosques in Istanbul alone, it is better to visit the major ones if you are only here for a few days . One fine example is the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, popularly known as the Blue Mosque for the blue tiles adorning the walls of its interior. It is overwhelming in size with six minarets along with eight domes and a main one. 

On the opposite side of the mosque is Hagia Sophia. A former Orthodox patriarchal  basilica, and later a mosque, it is now a museum in Istanbul. The museum is one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture. It is richly decorated with mosaics, and it is filled with holy relics, paintings, and artifacts. The Sultan Ahmed Mosque and Hagia Sophia are two of the most recognizable monuments in Istanbul. Just right behind Hagia Sophia, lies Topkapi Palace, the crown jewel of the Ottoman Empire. It may be a good idea to go on a weekday as it can be very crowded on weekends. Overlooking Istanbul Bogazici (Bosphorus) and the Marmara Sea, you can enjoy a nice view on the Asian side of Istanbul. 

When it comes to shopping, Istanbul is never short of places to go. The Grand Bazaar and Taksim Square are two major shopping areas. The Grand Bazaar has over 3,000 shops, and it is a shopping haven for both locals and tourists alike with merchandise ranging from Turkish rugs to leather goods and jewelries. Walking through the Grand Bazaar is like walking through a maze of small alleys with hidden treasures. And remember before you head out to the Grand Bazaar, don't leave home without your American Express. Taksim Square is the location of the Monument of the Republic. Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue) is the major long pedestrian shopping street that connects to other side streets and passages. The most interesting part of these streets and passages is that they lead you to a whole new world. I have seen hidden restaurants, cafes, specialties stores, and even a market that sells fresh produce. 

Istanbul can be a very nice city to walk around on a clear day. With a pair of comfortable shoes, I would recommend anyone to take the tram (TR1) to Tophane and wonder around the surrounding including the Galata Tower which provide a magnificent view of the Golden Horn. I find that fresh orange juice is best to quench thirst, and it cost only $1. 

The Galata Bridge is the heart of Istanbul, spanning the Golden Horn from Karaköy on the north to Old Istanbul, centered on Sultanahmet, on the south. It is not too far from the Tower. On one side of the bridge, ferries are busy transporting passengers to their destinations. And, on the other side, there are floating restaurants, street performers, and vendors. On the top deck, the bridge is full of anglers from one end to the other, while the lower deck are mostly restaurants.

Ramadan usually last 29-30 days which begins daily at dawn and ends at sunset. Young and old mingle at store-front before sunset. Friends and families gather at restaurants to break fast for the day. While children are playing nearby, the elder chat with one another in park benches. There is a strong sense of community bonding here.

The city has changed quite a bit since my last visit. It is more crowded than ever. Public transportation has improved with tram, metro, light rail, bus, funicular and maritime all serving more than 13 million inhabitants. Modern skyscrapers are slowly changing the skyline. These changes remind me of the days when Malaysian Airlines was one of the top airlines in the world. But today, this is no longer true. The inflight entertainment is as old as the days when cellphone is like a 10-pound block of brick. The service is as bad as the food. And, lastly, the appearance of the flight attendant who snapped at the poor Arab man needs to get her hair extension a thorough blow and style before she starts her next shift the next time.

Meeting with a friend in Wales

I flew to Dublin a day after my birthday. I thought I gave myself a treat, and also, because a very good friend of mine, Chin had a place to stay in Swansea, Wales. I was feeling lousy the morning I arrived at the Dublin International Airport. I had to wait for 2 hours before the first bus leaves for the city (€2 per trip). Surprisingly, traffic was heavy probably due to the morning rush hour, and as the bus moved slowly on the road, I could see beautiful tiny houses on both sides. It took nearly an hour and a half to reach the city center. It was a pretty cold spring weather in Dublin.

Dublin is among the top cities to live in the world, and constantly ranked one of the most expensive cities as well. At the last stop, I saw this pointy steel beam in the center of city. It is Dublin's newest monument, Spire of Dublin, or officially titled "Monument of Light". It is a 121.2 meters (398 feet) conical spire made of stainless steel and is located on O'Connell Street. During the day it maintains its steel appearance, but at dusk the monument appears to merge into the sky. The base of the monument is lit and the top is illuminated to provide a beacon in the night sky across the city. I crossed the bridge over River Liffey, and I could see the Ha'penny Bridge (officially called the Liffey Bridge, built as a pedestrian bridge in 1816) on the right side. As I was traveling light, I had my bag with me. I walked over to Trinity College as I had wanted to see The Book of Kells, which is by far the Library's most famous book and is located in the Old Library, along with the Book of Durrow, the Book of Howth and other ancient texts. Also incorporating the Long Room, the Old Library is one of Ireland's biggest tourist attractions, and holds thousands of rare, and in many cases very early, volumes. This explained to me why there was a long line of Japanese tourists, all had wanted to see the same thing. 

I headed out and began looking for a pharmacy. The migraine was killing me. Thank goodness I found one. I went for a cup of tea, and took my aspirins. I sat for a while. With the migraine gone, I went to Templer Bar, best known for its nightlife. There are lots of bars, restaurants, and cafes. Definitely, an area that is becoming popular among tourists. It was developed as Dublin's cultural quarter and does retain the spirit as a center for studios, small music venues, and arts productions. I almost covered all the top attractions around the city center, and with the time on my side, I decided to take a bus to Kilmainham Gaol, one of the largest unoccupied gaols in Europe. The attractions include an exhibition detailing the political and penal history and its restoration.

Early next morning, I had to go to the bus station for my ferry to Holyhead, Wales at 8 am. I was shocked to see so much garbage on the street after a Friday night of booze and party in Dublin on O'Connell Street. I took the Stena Line ferry at Dun Laoghaire ferry terminal (cost €30 per trip). The regular service is a 3 hour journey (express is 2 hours). As I leave the port in Holyhead, I was stopped by the immigration officers; they questioned my intention of going to Wales (stupid questions like 'do you speak English?' etc), and my luggage was searched thoroughly (item by item - I should have a 1,000-year egg in my bag!). When I finally showed them my green card, they let me go. I thought that was stupid. I managed to get a train to Conwy. The ride was enjoyable, and scenic. I went to Conwy Castle - designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was built between 1283 and 1289 on a rock promontory to prevent undermining and also guard the entrance to the River Conwy. And, Conwy is a walled market town, and it is a popular tourist town in Wales.

From there, I took a connecting train to Swansea. It took 4 hours to get there. When I got off the train, Chin was already there to greet me. Swansea is a coastal city located on the sandy South West Wales. It is the second most populous city in Wales. It was one of the key centers of the world copper industry during the Industrial Revolution. But today, the town is a little quiet, and I did not see much going on here. Chin's place was up on a hill in a quiet neighborhood about 20 minutes from the town center. I could see the pretty bright night sky from the backyard.

The next day, it was rainy, windy and cold. But that did not deter us from going to Gower. It was an hour ride from the main bus station (cost £2). Gower is a peninsula on the south west coast of Wales and it was the first area in the United Kingdom to be designated as an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in 1956. About 70 square miles (180 km) in area, Gower is known for its coastline, popular with walkers and outdoor enthusiasts, especially surfers. That day it was so windy that the waves kept pounding the shore. 

 After a day in the cold, we went back to Swansea, and sat down for a nice hot chocolate in a cafe. 

I left Swansea for Holyhead next day, although I wished I had stayed longer. I made a quick stop at Shrewsbury, another historic market town in the West Midlands region of England. I spent some time there, and arrived back in Dublin later that day. I checked into a hostel in Templer Bar. On my last day before my departure back to New York, I went to the Guinness Storehouse for a visit (cost €15). At the Guinness Storehouse you'll discover all there is to know about the world famous beer. Not as fascinating as I thought it would have been. I bought some Guinness candies, stopped at Christ Church Cathedral, and went straight to the airport. 

 One thing I like about this trip is that it was short, enjoyable, and hassle free, and most of all, it was nice to see an old friend in a place I would never thought of going.