"I do" in Colombia

The destination wedding that my friend has been planning since the beginning of last year is finally here. The place is in Medellin Colombia. 

Medellin was notorious for its drugs cartel that it was once dubbed “the most dangerous city in the world”. Crime rate was 20 times more than the average in the United States back in 2008. The drugs cartel collapsed few years ago, and today there are millions of visitors to Medellin for its weather, affordable living and economic opportunities. 

I decided to go visit Cartagena first. A day before my departure I received an email from Copa Airlines informing me that I have been upgraded to business class. “Hmmm, this is going to be a good trip”, I said to myself. 

Cartagena is an attractive town with a city wall around its historical old town. Here you will find some of the finest Spanish architectures with narrow alleys, cafes and shops selling local designs and crafts. As sunsets (which is the best time), you can take a walk up the old city wall to enjoy the view with a nice breeze coming from the ocean. If you are hunger for some decent local fare, there is roadside stall selling ceviche not far from the entrance of the Clock Tower Building. The ceviche comes in different sizes and each has different price ranging from 5,000 pesos to 27,000 pesos. I chose a 20,000 pesos size cup with chipi chipi (small clams) and calamar (squids). It was creamy, delicious and hearty. Indeed a delicious meal to end my first night in Colombia.

There is an interesting part of the city where the historical Old City ends, and it is Getsemani, an up-and-coming trendy area with graffiti and rundown houses acting as backdrop for a lively neighborhood at night. This area is filled with local pubs, restaurants, and cafes intertwine with the local street vendors, and family run businesses. Plaza de Santisma Trinidad is a yellow 17th century church popular with locals. At anytime of the day or night, you’ll find locals sitting by its footsteps enjoying each other company while school children play soccer nearby. If you wander to Calle de la Sierpe, you find graffiti canvased on walls of well-worn buildings with Spanish arches. Here you will see locals in this neighborhood minding their daily chores with kids and their pets playing outside their homes. 

If you get thirsty, stop a vendor for local coffee served on a paper cup. Or even fruits from a seller who can peel the skin off the fruit on the spot. 

The San Felipe Castle is a huge attraction in Cartagena. It is a fortress sitting on top the Hill of Fan Lazaro, and it was built to protect the city from the pirates and war. After 5 pm is probably the best time to go as direct sunlight in the day can be extremely hot and dangerous. The castle is very well-preserved and it is striking for its grand entrance and maze of tunnels. 

Before I took this trip, I heard so much about traveling on a bus from Cartagena to Medellin. The journey takes too long, the bus is freezing cold, and the movies just too loud. It turns out to be an interesting experience I had for a long time. Journey takes 14 hours, it is cold; I’m assuming this came from the altitude as the bus needs to travel uphill heading to Medellin. Instead of seeing lush greens, I’m seeing garbage lying all over along the way. As for the bus, my only complaint is the filthy toilet at the back.

Day before the wedding, guests from the US had dinner with the bride and groom to be. After dinner, the wedding couple arranged for a Chiva bus that took us round the city for a night of fun, dance and drink. Chiva bus is an artisan rustic bus used to carry people, livestocks and merchandise. These buses are varied in color and design with the character resembled the person who runs the bus as well as the person who painted it. I had no idea where we stopped,  but at every stop there was always a photo op for everyone.

The wedding was held at Casa Santa Monica, a posh event hall in Medellin. It was a night of drinks and dance, food and wine, tears of joy and fun. Seeing the couple exchanged their wows was so touching and memorable. Thanks Ky and Juan for the invite. It was my first destination wedding and I’m pretty sure it would be on my mind for a very long time.

Medellin is the second largest city in Colombia. It is located at 5,000 feet above sea level, which makes its climate as hot as other cities located at the same latitude, and temperatures can be cooler on the surrounding mountains and once sunsets, it just feels perfectly cool and nice. 

Juan told me that it could be dangerous in certain parts of the city at night especially downtown. Being grew up in a tough neighborhood myself, I went first for the metro cable car ride. At the metro station San Domingo, I transferred for free for the cable car. It was a pleasant ride as the car ascend to the hilltop, with the slums of the Medellin below. I got down at the very last stop and took a walk. Heading back I went downtown. It was a pretty chaotic scene with street vendors  everywhere, and as it was rush hour the metro was crowded with people heading home just like any big city in the world.

Plaza Botero and its surrounding is another interesting place to go. The plaza that leads to the museum feels like an open air museum as it is filled with bronze sculptures by Fernando Botero, a Colombian sculpture known for creating bloated and oversized people and animals. I was told that the artist donated all of the sculptures at the plaza which are more than 20, and each has an estimated price tag of US $1M. 

I find that the Colombians are extremely helpful when you approach them although communication between me and them are limited to ’si’ and finger pointing. As the walking tour guide was telling the group,” Tell all friends about what you see in Colombia, it is a very safe place to visit today.” I felt the same way too.

A trip the Medellin would not be complete without a day trip to Guatape. It is like going to Disneyworld but without the rides. The picturesque town is known as the Pueblo de Zócalos, named for the beautifully sculpted and painted depictions of village life that adorn the lower half of most buildings in town. The boardwalk by the waterfront is filled with local vendors selling beautiful handicrafts, souvenirs and food, and the adventurous can take a ride on the canopy zipline over the lake.

The region's most famous attraction is a 200+ meter high rock outcropping that towers over the surrounding area. It's officially named El Peñon de Guatapé, but more commonly known as La Piedra (The Stone). Over 600 stairs have been built into the side of this enormous geological marvel, allowing safe access to the top, where it offers spectacular views of the lake and surrounding areas, as well as snacks and drinks for the visitors. And who wouldn’t want a snack or drink after a long climb up to the top?

Sigiriya or La Piedra

Sigiriya and La Piedra are two of the most intriguing rocks in the world. These rocks can be seen standing proudly from afar as one approaches the sites. 

Sigiriya in Sri Lanka was built by King Kasyapa as his new capital. After his death, it was used as a Buddhist monastery. Reaching the top means clambering up a series of grooves cut into the rock with the assistance of the  handrail. On top of the rock is the ruins of an upper palace with a view of its surroundings stretching as far as the eyes could see.

La Piedra in Guatape Colombia may not have any historical significance as Sigiriya but it is the pride of its residents. There’s a huge long crack which is conveniently wedged with a 650-step bricked staircase all the way up. At the top, visitors are welcomed with vendors selling snacks, fresh fruits and cold drinks. And the view is fantastic.

It is a long way up on either rock, but once you are up there you’ll feel a sense of accomplishment that is satisfying.

Better days ahead

2014 was not a good year for me. I had to go to Malaysia in the beginning of the year as there was a death in the family. The day I arrived, my sister drove me to the Buddhist funeral home where our dad would spent his last three days on earth for families and friends to pay their final respects before burial.

I rested, and took a step backward to reflect the life of my late father. He actually had a pretty good life. May he rest in peace.

I had a chance to visit two of Malaysia’s popular destinations, Ipoh and Penang.

Ipoh today has totally blossomed into a beautiful cityscape that marries old-world charm with modern facilities. Known for its local fare, Ipoh offers an endless lists of street food for the diehard foodies coming from all over the world. ‘Bean sprout chicken noodles”, “Chee cheong fun (flat noodles) with curry”, and “white coffee” are just some of the few originated from this once sleepy colonial town. A good friend of mine, Michelle opened a floral shop a couple of years ago in the part of town which is still occupied by rows of old shophouses with hidden treasures for the adventure seeking individuals. 

"The Pearl of the Orient" or simply Penang has a unique architectural and cultural landscape without parallel anywhere in Southeast Asia. It is also the most livable city in Malaysia and it has the lowest crime rate in the country. I spent the weekend with a few of my closest friends, and it was really nice to do catch up with them. The architecture in Penang is a durable testament of her history - outstanding colonial buildings include the Municipal Council and Town Hall buildings, Penang Museum, the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, St George's Anglican Church, and buildings in the old commercial district - all of which are part of the UNESCO Heritage Site. Certain old walls within the city have been given a new lease of life with beautiful wall painting of children all across historical Georgetown. These are the works of Lithuanian artist, Ernest Zacharevic, and the artworks are one of the main draws to the island these days.

I stayed in London for a few days on my flight back to New York. I met with a friend, Chin for a day. I helped her moved to her new apartment which is located near the Eventim Apollo where Kate Bush had her ‘Before The Dawn’ performances late August last year. “Come and stay with me on your next trip, Herman”, she said. I promised I would just do not know when. 

I took a day trip to Stonehenge, Salisbury and Bath. Stonehenge is one of the most famous sites in the world. It is the remains of a ring of standing stones set within earthworks located in Wiltshire, England. The site and its surrounding were added to the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in 1986. Unfortunately, I find its historical facts and believes are much more interesting that the sight itself. Salisbury Cathedral has the tallest church spire in the United Kingdom.The cathedral was beautiful although I hate to admit that I missed the opportunity to view the Magna Carta. Bath is well-known for its Roman baths and Temple but it was the Royal Crescent which is a row of 30 terraced housed laid out in a sweeping crescent in the city that is really beautiful and breathtaking. My only complaint about the tour is there was just not enough time. 

This was my year in travel for 2014. Where would I go in 2015? Right now I’m still debating whether I should go to Medellin, Colombia for a friend’s wedding happening in 3 weeks time. I will be heading back to Malaysia in February. I will fly to Cambodia to see the Angkor Wat, the 7th Wonder of the World in March. As for the rest of the year, I hope to reinvent myself for a better year ahead and beyond.

Helsinki

There are a few ferry operators that run between Tallinn and Helsinki. Prices may vary depending on the time of travel as well as ferry but the crossing would probably takes a little more than 2 hours. 

I had less than 2 days in Helsinki so I decided to see a few attractions in Helsinki. 

Temppeliaukio Church is naturally quarried out of a natural bedrock. The church hall is like a dome lined with copper and supported on the rock walls by reinforced concrete beams. Due to its design and shape, the church gives an excellent acoustics sound as it bounces from one end to the other during a choir session there.

Helsinki was chosen to be the World Design Capital 2012, and I could see why. The city is filled with beautiful buildings with architectures from Art Nouveau to Romanticism. 

The Helsinki Cathedral is symbolic to Helsinki. There are steps leading to the main entrance of the Cathedral. As I stood watching from the top, I could see rows of stalls with decorative lightings reveling for the coming Christmas celebration. It was truly magical. Kiasma is contemporary art museum designed by American architect Steven Holl. The building curves to one end intertwining with the geometry of the city and landscape. The museum housed Finnish and foreign art, particularly from the Nordic and Baltic States. 

After two weeks of non-spicy food, I had the desire to eat something real spicy on my last night before heading back to New York the next morning. I decided to go for Indian. The food was pretty good but unfortunately, it was not spicy at all. I was disappointed but also felt sad that I had to leave. 

There are so much in Helsinki that I had yet to discover. I am hoping to visit the place again but hopefully in a warmer weather next time.

The Baltic States: Tallinn

My last stop in the Baltics was Tallinn. A 4-hour bus ride from Riga, Tallinn has one of the best well-preserved Old Medieval Towns in the world. I stayed at a Fat Margaret's hostel which is less than 2 minutes walk to the gate of Tallinn's Old Town. It is an old house with steps that squeak as I walked up to my room on the second floor. The sky was already dark by 3PM as I ventured out to Old Town. I was impressed with it. 

The fortified walls and towers with cobblestones streets and narrow lanes within the medieval houses is a joy to walk. I think Tallinn is the best among the three capitals in the Baltics. Since it is so close to Helsinki, the city gives a modern European vibes to the city as well as an old European charm to it. Once I'm outside the Old Town, the city is filled with modern buildings and shops.

The Kohtuotsa viewing platform situated on top of Toompea hill has a beautiful view of the Medieval neighborhood against the backdrop of the city's modern district. I was told that the platform is the most famous picture point by the tour guide. The tour took me to the St. Alexander Nevsky Cathedral which is the main Russian Orthodox cathedral. This onion-domed structure is richly decorated to symbolize the Russian dominance in Estonia. The cathedral does hold marriage ceremony but it would never closed to the public. Thus, the wedding couple may have a hard time knowing who their guests really are during the ceremony as people would come and go at any time. 

The Freedom Square has an interesting story too. The Monument to the War of Independence is constructed to commemorate all those who had fought for freedom and independence. It consists of glass plates and a Czech Republic company was awarded to build the monument. Unfortunately, the monument was poorly done that a court case was filed against the company. Finally, the company had to return 600,000 Euro to the city of Tallinn in early 2014. The monument is brightly lit at night, and it stands directly opposite St John's Church, a Lutheran parish church contrasting the new and the old in the city.

Rotermann Quarter is a collection of dilapidated buildings some years ago, and they are now turning into commercial and cultural center with a taste of avant-garde architecture. The place is home to local designers, as well as Kalev, probably the best-known chocolate brand in Estonia. 

The Baltic States: Riga

Riga is the capital of Latvia. It's a 4-hour bus ride from Vilnius. I was greeted with heavy snow and cold wind when I arrived at the main bus terminal in Riga. I managed to drag my luggage to the hostel I was staying, and thankfully, it is not that far from the station. I told myself I need to take pictures of the city in snow. Braving the icy cold weather, I ventured out and took as many pictures as I possibly could in the least amount of time. I am glad I did, and looking back at the shots I took, they are gorgeous.  

The Freedom Monument is located in the center of Freedom Boulevard near Old Town Riga. It is probably the best location to begin your walk in Riga. The city has impressive Art-Nouveau architecture which spread across its Old Town of which the building of the Brotherhood of Blackheads is the most impressive. The buildings have been reconstructed and expanded a number of times, with elements added to the facade's pediments each time. I went up the tower of St Peter's Church for a panoramic view of the city. As I reached the observation deck, 124 meters in height, I was overwhelmed with bitter cold wind but looking down I saw the city covered with snow. I told myself,"Okay, 10 minutes is all I need" and my fingers were numb by the time I snapped the last picture. The church hall is large, and there are exhibitions detailing the past and present traditions in architecture and arts in the church. I wandered outside and walked along the Daugava River. I saw a row of pavilions, and decided to head toward them. They turned out to be Riga Central Market with each pavilion selling different type of products. I could spend all day going from one to another. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the pavilions were built using old German Zeppelin hangars with Neoclassicism and Art Deco styles.

The Holiday Market near the Riga Cathedral was kind of disappointment. There were not too many stands, and the crowd was almost no where in sight. Was it the weather, or was it just one of those quiet days? I wondered. I went back there again at a different time, and I was met with the same disappointment. 

I joined a walking tour in Riga. It was a very interesting 2-hour tour. Some amazing architectures from the Soviet-era were included in the tour. The most impressive building is an apartment building used by the KGB as a place of tortured and imprisonment of civilians during the Soviet Union occupation in Latvia. Today it is a memorial building with no access to the building. The Latvian Academy of Sciences or popularly known as Stalin's birthday cake is another interesting architecture. The initial idea was to build a collective farm house but the idea was never implemented. The building looks pretty imposing with its natural and artificial stone plates, which were individually ordered from Russia.  

Other places covered in the tour include Riga Central Market and Black Market, which sells nothing but old scrapes of metals from automobiles and other machineries. You can find old mobile phones, old batteries and other old stuff. I do recommend the tour. It begins at noon in front of St Peter's Church. Look out for the lady with a yellow suitcase!

Hill of Crosses