Best of the Bests

Probably I am one of the last few who have yet to see Angkor Wat, one of the seventh wonders of the world today. The day is finally here as I landed at Siem Reap International Airport, and greeted by tuk-tuk drivers asking me where I would like to go.

The extreme hot sun in the morning and dust from the road make me feel uncomfortable as the driver takes me to the center of town. I’m all excited about Angkor Wat, and I booked the same tuk-tuk for the next morning to catch a glimpse of the rising sun behind the temples. “To see sunrise, we have to leave from hostel at 5 am”, the driver reminded me. “And it’s extra $5”, he said before taking off.

March is hot in Cambodia, and comes April it will get even hotter. I could feel the back of my tee shirt soaking wet as I stood at the hostel reception for an early check in. After a quick shower, sun block and hat, I head out to the Old Market Square. As I walked toward my intended place, I could see tuk-tuks everywhere, parked by roadsides as well as other hotspots where shops and restaurants are located giving me signs that demands are less than supplies. The Old Market offers almost anything and everything that one could imagine. With dim lights and  most come from natural sunlight beaming from the rooftop, it makes me wonder what else could be crawling on the wet floor of the produced section. Other sections include souvenirs, clothing, food and there are even salons and manicures. On the other side of the Siem Reap River, is the Night Market. It is smaller, cleaner and definitely a lot more brighter.  Here you find lots of silver, beads and other local designs. The day seems to get hotter by the hour, and fortunately streets are filled with vendors selling cold drinks as well as fruit shakes for only $1.

I find myself waiting for sunrise at Angkor Wat the next morning at 5.30. The prime spot is by the pond but unfortunately the area is already filled with delighted spectators. While the wait is long, sunrise happened very swiftly. By 7.30 am I’m at Sranh Srang and Banteay Kdei. In Sranh Srang, there is a concrete stage facing the lake guarded by two lion statues. This is a popular site for viewing the sunrise. Things get better from there. Ta Prohm is one of the most photogenic temples in Angkor. Trees and their trunks outgrown the ruins and some even perched through windows and doors giving the temple a look of a natural wonder. I’m glad I was there first before groups of Japanese and Chinese tourists throng the temple posing for pictures. 

A few stops along the way, I finally get to Bayon. The temple’s most distinctive feature is the massive stone faces on most of the towers, all sides are adorned with these serene faces that could have lasting memory on anyone visiting the place. With these faces smiling upon me as I looked up,  Bayon is definitely a place to find peace amidst the hot weather here at Angkor. I found mine here. Angkor Wat is the temple of all temples in Siem Reap. Do you know that it is the largest religious monument in the world? I didn’t know that but I felt my tired feet needing breaks as I tried to cover every spot surrounding this temple. As the best-preserved temple at the site, it is the pride of the people in Cambodia and it represents the top of the high classical style of Khmer architecture. I’m done for the day after admiring the endless walls of Hindu mythology with intricate carving from top to bottom at the temple.

There are lots more to cover at this massive  UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I do not want to overwhelm myself on my first trip here. I’ll leave the rest for my next trip. 

Battambang is less than 3 hours by bus from Siem Reap. Its old town center has one of the most attractive French Colonial architectures in Cambodia. A sleepy town with nothing much to do except for its infamous bamboo train which is a bamboo platform mounted on train axles powered by a small portable engine. As it consists only one track and one way, passengers from the opposite direction have to disembark and train has to be disassembled for the passing train. I met an Australian who just opened up a boutique hotel with an exclusive store selling soaps and other gifts and souvenirs. Business is slow he claims, and I could see why. One cook book costs $35 in US dollars! This is probably a week’s pay for most people here.

Looking back at the pictures today, I am glad I visited Angkor Wat. It gives me the impression that arts and history in Asia is very much alive, rich and colorful. 

Quality of Life or Lifestyle?

I travel back to Kuala Lumpur from the US since 2007. The last 7 years I have seen amazing changes in the city’s skyline. As the city progresses, countless new developments come in rapid pace and endless flyovers and light transit system intertwine with existing ones.

Highrise condominiums and retail complexes are mushrooming like wild fire in the city. Although there are improvements in some areas but are they truly beneficial to the Chans, Ahmads and Gopals?

Quality of life is an opportunity for the inhabitants to enjoy the space that mother nature has bestowed us. Unfortunately, we have been robbed by unscrupulous developers and greedy authorities with multi-million projects and diminishing green lungs. Quality of life is finding solutions to ease mobility for the residents to move from one place to another at the shortest period of time. Although public transportation has improved in general, progress is still in snail pace. Quality of life means freedom to express ourselves, but unfortunately, we have to watch our back constantly.

We may have world class hotels, designer shops, and specialty cafes but does the existence of these world class amenities actually improved the way we live? Talking to small business owners and cab drivers, everyone is trying to keep their noses above water. No one is happy at the direction the country is going. No one is happy that the once rich country is in huge debt. No one is happy that the officials are pretending that everything is fine with the country.

As I sat and glanced outside the window of the taxi, I saw uncertainties just like the many new flyovers and rail transit tracks shooting up above ground, polluting the once beautiful skyline with noise and concrete dull cement. It is such an ugly sight. We are being outpaced by countries that were once trailing behind. Cost of living has overtook our purchasing power of goods. A recent trip to Cambodia was a reality check to the value of the country’s currency. The fact is a price of noodle soup is pricier than one in Kuala Lumpur is something that the country should be worried about.

Quality of life? I think not. These changes are merely a lifestyle that we have to get use to them. A lifestyle that is merely a window dressing for the rest of the world to see. I’m experiencing a lifestyle of unaffordable luxury which was once attainable to the middle income families. Pretty sad for a country on its road to achieve develop nation status in 2020.

Ready for Angkor Wat

As sun rises above Angkor Wat, hundreds of tourists flash out their cameras, phones, and iPads to take pictures of this enormous temple known as the seventh wonder of the world.

"I do" in Colombia

The destination wedding that my friend has been planning since the beginning of last year is finally here. The place is in Medellin Colombia. 

Medellin was notorious for its drugs cartel that it was once dubbed “the most dangerous city in the world”. Crime rate was 20 times more than the average in the United States back in 2008. The drugs cartel collapsed few years ago, and today there are millions of visitors to Medellin for its weather, affordable living and economic opportunities. 

I decided to go visit Cartagena first. A day before my departure I received an email from Copa Airlines informing me that I have been upgraded to business class. “Hmmm, this is going to be a good trip”, I said to myself. 

Cartagena is an attractive town with a city wall around its historical old town. Here you will find some of the finest Spanish architectures with narrow alleys, cafes and shops selling local designs and crafts. As sunsets (which is the best time), you can take a walk up the old city wall to enjoy the view with a nice breeze coming from the ocean. If you are hunger for some decent local fare, there is roadside stall selling ceviche not far from the entrance of the Clock Tower Building. The ceviche comes in different sizes and each has different price ranging from 5,000 pesos to 27,000 pesos. I chose a 20,000 pesos size cup with chipi chipi (small clams) and calamar (squids). It was creamy, delicious and hearty. Indeed a delicious meal to end my first night in Colombia.

There is an interesting part of the city where the historical Old City ends, and it is Getsemani, an up-and-coming trendy area with graffiti and rundown houses acting as backdrop for a lively neighborhood at night. This area is filled with local pubs, restaurants, and cafes intertwine with the local street vendors, and family run businesses. Plaza de Santisma Trinidad is a yellow 17th century church popular with locals. At anytime of the day or night, you’ll find locals sitting by its footsteps enjoying each other company while school children play soccer nearby. If you wander to Calle de la Sierpe, you find graffiti canvased on walls of well-worn buildings with Spanish arches. Here you will see locals in this neighborhood minding their daily chores with kids and their pets playing outside their homes. 

If you get thirsty, stop a vendor for local coffee served on a paper cup. Or even fruits from a seller who can peel the skin off the fruit on the spot. 

The San Felipe Castle is a huge attraction in Cartagena. It is a fortress sitting on top the Hill of Fan Lazaro, and it was built to protect the city from the pirates and war. After 5 pm is probably the best time to go as direct sunlight in the day can be extremely hot and dangerous. The castle is very well-preserved and it is striking for its grand entrance and maze of tunnels. 

Before I took this trip, I heard so much about traveling on a bus from Cartagena to Medellin. The journey takes too long, the bus is freezing cold, and the movies just too loud. It turns out to be an interesting experience I had for a long time. Journey takes 14 hours, it is cold; I’m assuming this came from the altitude as the bus needs to travel uphill heading to Medellin. Instead of seeing lush greens, I’m seeing garbage lying all over along the way. As for the bus, my only complaint is the filthy toilet at the back.

Day before the wedding, guests from the US had dinner with the bride and groom to be. After dinner, the wedding couple arranged for a Chiva bus that took us round the city for a night of fun, dance and drink. Chiva bus is an artisan rustic bus used to carry people, livestocks and merchandise. These buses are varied in color and design with the character resembled the person who runs the bus as well as the person who painted it. I had no idea where we stopped,  but at every stop there was always a photo op for everyone.

The wedding was held at Casa Santa Monica, a posh event hall in Medellin. It was a night of drinks and dance, food and wine, tears of joy and fun. Seeing the couple exchanged their wows was so touching and memorable. Thanks Ky and Juan for the invite. It was my first destination wedding and I’m pretty sure it would be on my mind for a very long time.

Medellin is the second largest city in Colombia. It is located at 5,000 feet above sea level, which makes its climate as hot as other cities located at the same latitude, and temperatures can be cooler on the surrounding mountains and once sunsets, it just feels perfectly cool and nice. 

Juan told me that it could be dangerous in certain parts of the city at night especially downtown. Being grew up in a tough neighborhood myself, I went first for the metro cable car ride. At the metro station San Domingo, I transferred for free for the cable car. It was a pleasant ride as the car ascend to the hilltop, with the slums of the Medellin below. I got down at the very last stop and took a walk. Heading back I went downtown. It was a pretty chaotic scene with street vendors  everywhere, and as it was rush hour the metro was crowded with people heading home just like any big city in the world.

Plaza Botero and its surrounding is another interesting place to go. The plaza that leads to the museum feels like an open air museum as it is filled with bronze sculptures by Fernando Botero, a Colombian sculpture known for creating bloated and oversized people and animals. I was told that the artist donated all of the sculptures at the plaza which are more than 20, and each has an estimated price tag of US $1M. 

I find that the Colombians are extremely helpful when you approach them although communication between me and them are limited to ’si’ and finger pointing. As the walking tour guide was telling the group,” Tell all friends about what you see in Colombia, it is a very safe place to visit today.” I felt the same way too.

A trip the Medellin would not be complete without a day trip to Guatape. It is like going to Disneyworld but without the rides. The picturesque town is known as the Pueblo de Zócalos, named for the beautifully sculpted and painted depictions of village life that adorn the lower half of most buildings in town. The boardwalk by the waterfront is filled with local vendors selling beautiful handicrafts, souvenirs and food, and the adventurous can take a ride on the canopy zipline over the lake.

The region's most famous attraction is a 200+ meter high rock outcropping that towers over the surrounding area. It's officially named El Peñon de Guatapé, but more commonly known as La Piedra (The Stone). Over 600 stairs have been built into the side of this enormous geological marvel, allowing safe access to the top, where it offers spectacular views of the lake and surrounding areas, as well as snacks and drinks for the visitors. And who wouldn’t want a snack or drink after a long climb up to the top?

Sigiriya or La Piedra

Sigiriya and La Piedra are two of the most intriguing rocks in the world. These rocks can be seen standing proudly from afar as one approaches the sites. 

Sigiriya in Sri Lanka was built by King Kasyapa as his new capital. After his death, it was used as a Buddhist monastery. Reaching the top means clambering up a series of grooves cut into the rock with the assistance of the  handrail. On top of the rock is the ruins of an upper palace with a view of its surroundings stretching as far as the eyes could see.

La Piedra in Guatape Colombia may not have any historical significance as Sigiriya but it is the pride of its residents. There’s a huge long crack which is conveniently wedged with a 650-step bricked staircase all the way up. At the top, visitors are welcomed with vendors selling snacks, fresh fruits and cold drinks. And the view is fantastic.

It is a long way up on either rock, but once you are up there you’ll feel a sense of accomplishment that is satisfying.

Better days ahead

2014 was not a good year for me. I had to go to Malaysia in the beginning of the year as there was a death in the family. The day I arrived, my sister drove me to the Buddhist funeral home where our dad would spent his last three days on earth for families and friends to pay their final respects before burial.

I rested, and took a step backward to reflect the life of my late father. He actually had a pretty good life. May he rest in peace.

I had a chance to visit two of Malaysia’s popular destinations, Ipoh and Penang.

Ipoh today has totally blossomed into a beautiful cityscape that marries old-world charm with modern facilities. Known for its local fare, Ipoh offers an endless lists of street food for the diehard foodies coming from all over the world. ‘Bean sprout chicken noodles”, “Chee cheong fun (flat noodles) with curry”, and “white coffee” are just some of the few originated from this once sleepy colonial town. A good friend of mine, Michelle opened a floral shop a couple of years ago in the part of town which is still occupied by rows of old shophouses with hidden treasures for the adventure seeking individuals. 

"The Pearl of the Orient" or simply Penang has a unique architectural and cultural landscape without parallel anywhere in Southeast Asia. It is also the most livable city in Malaysia and it has the lowest crime rate in the country. I spent the weekend with a few of my closest friends, and it was really nice to do catch up with them. The architecture in Penang is a durable testament of her history - outstanding colonial buildings include the Municipal Council and Town Hall buildings, Penang Museum, the Eastern and Oriental Hotel, St George's Anglican Church, and buildings in the old commercial district - all of which are part of the UNESCO Heritage Site. Certain old walls within the city have been given a new lease of life with beautiful wall painting of children all across historical Georgetown. These are the works of Lithuanian artist, Ernest Zacharevic, and the artworks are one of the main draws to the island these days.

I stayed in London for a few days on my flight back to New York. I met with a friend, Chin for a day. I helped her moved to her new apartment which is located near the Eventim Apollo where Kate Bush had her ‘Before The Dawn’ performances late August last year. “Come and stay with me on your next trip, Herman”, she said. I promised I would just do not know when. 

I took a day trip to Stonehenge, Salisbury and Bath. Stonehenge is one of the most famous sites in the world. It is the remains of a ring of standing stones set within earthworks located in Wiltshire, England. The site and its surrounding were added to the UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites in 1986. Unfortunately, I find its historical facts and believes are much more interesting that the sight itself. Salisbury Cathedral has the tallest church spire in the United Kingdom.The cathedral was beautiful although I hate to admit that I missed the opportunity to view the Magna Carta. Bath is well-known for its Roman baths and Temple but it was the Royal Crescent which is a row of 30 terraced housed laid out in a sweeping crescent in the city that is really beautiful and breathtaking. My only complaint about the tour is there was just not enough time. 

This was my year in travel for 2014. Where would I go in 2015? Right now I’m still debating whether I should go to Medellin, Colombia for a friend’s wedding happening in 3 weeks time. I will be heading back to Malaysia in February. I will fly to Cambodia to see the Angkor Wat, the 7th Wonder of the World in March. As for the rest of the year, I hope to reinvent myself for a better year ahead and beyond.

Helsinki

There are a few ferry operators that run between Tallinn and Helsinki. Prices may vary depending on the time of travel as well as ferry but the crossing would probably takes a little more than 2 hours. 

I had less than 2 days in Helsinki so I decided to see a few attractions in Helsinki. 

Temppeliaukio Church is naturally quarried out of a natural bedrock. The church hall is like a dome lined with copper and supported on the rock walls by reinforced concrete beams. Due to its design and shape, the church gives an excellent acoustics sound as it bounces from one end to the other during a choir session there.

Helsinki was chosen to be the World Design Capital 2012, and I could see why. The city is filled with beautiful buildings with architectures from Art Nouveau to Romanticism. 

The Helsinki Cathedral is symbolic to Helsinki. There are steps leading to the main entrance of the Cathedral. As I stood watching from the top, I could see rows of stalls with decorative lightings reveling for the coming Christmas celebration. It was truly magical. Kiasma is contemporary art museum designed by American architect Steven Holl. The building curves to one end intertwining with the geometry of the city and landscape. The museum housed Finnish and foreign art, particularly from the Nordic and Baltic States. 

After two weeks of non-spicy food, I had the desire to eat something real spicy on my last night before heading back to New York the next morning. I decided to go for Indian. The food was pretty good but unfortunately, it was not spicy at all. I was disappointed but also felt sad that I had to leave. 

There are so much in Helsinki that I had yet to discover. I am hoping to visit the place again but hopefully in a warmer weather next time.